Mundane question re turning hanger

General climbing discussions. Climbing, Bouldering, Mountaineering. Anything!!
**Keep the arguments to the suject, not the members!
Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am

Mundane question re turning hanger

Postby Keith » Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:13 pm

There's a hanger at Waterworld that turns 90 degrees after a while, even though the nut is tightened quite tight. I think this is because the hanger sits on slightly uneven rock. As one climbs above the hanger, the draw tends to turn the hanger until it eventually sits 90 degrees from they way it should be.

Any suggestions for fixing this? Perhaps a rubber washer/sheet beneath the hanger.

Runnus suggested a hanger of the other handedness.

Any other ideas?

Edit: New subject line to hopefully increase readership. Going there tomorrow so need a solution asap.

Also came across this. Anybody seen/know/used/stock these hangers??

"Fixe Fixed Hanger:
One of the most widely used fixed hangers in the world. Made from Stainless Steel. Rated to 30kN

’No doubt that hanger is our most known anchor, with an excellent reputation in the vertical world. It is strong, easy to clip and with a capacity for more than one carabiner. Three small protuberances around the bolt orifice keep the hanger from spinning if it receives lateral forces. Biner lodgement has blunt edges to avoid damaging. Multi-directional hanger with 4 mm stock.’"

Edit2: Subject edited again to be even more alluring. Apologies that Honnold is only mentioned once [Edit3: twice!] during the post itself.

Edit3: Subject changed from "Yes! Honnold's Crazy, Sexy Hanger Turning Issue"

User avatar
Posts: 134
Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:51 am
Real Name: Nigel Bailes
Location: JHB

Re: Mundane question re turning hanger

Postby Baldrick » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:37 am

Hi Keith,

There is an alternative from AustriAlpin which has a similar solution to prevent the hanger turning. A small indentation has been punched into the face to form a "bubble" on the rock side. This prevents any turning of the hanger.
HD03A.jpg (20.63 KiB) Viewed 1032 times

Posts: 1528
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: Mundane question re turning hanger

Postby mokganjetsi » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:47 am

the subject change got me..... :oops:

last resort - place a new bolt? glue-in perhaps.

Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am

Re: Mundane question re turning hanger

Postby Keith » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:53 am

I switched the hanger for a different-shaped one.

It worked!

Social Media


Return to “General Postings”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest