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 Post subject: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 8:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:34 pm
Posts: 48
We all know the Cape climbers are bad-ass trad hard machines but it looks like the rest of the country is trying to close the gap.
I noticed (on 8a) that, over the last weekend:

Brian Weaver and Alex Bester did the Final Cut (25) at Mhlabatini
Ebert Nel did Glory Road (25) also at Shlabbs
Scott Sinclair, Candice Bagley and myself did The Flames of Sunset (25) at Monteseel

The 8a table on climb.za almost had a full house of trad routes on display - a nice change.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1167
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Like!


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:55 am
Posts: 273
Location: Pretoria
Real Name: Brian Weaver
I'm glad to see that Candice is getting back to her pre-injury awesomeness!

Bring on the trad climbing!

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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2976
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Like :thumleft: + Clinton working a new project on TM

Image
Clinton Martinengo cuts loose on his new project 'Atomic Sky' on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain. Pic by Garrreth Bird.

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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:21 pm
Posts: 117
Nice to see you still slamming the hard routes Roger!! Awewsome. :thumleft:


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:48 am
Posts: 21
And Cameron Smith eschewed the 16 bolts on the inimitable "Mojo Rising" (21) at Fordyce (EC) , tradding it in fluid style.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1167
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
mark seuring opened a grade 28 line on one of the lower buttresses of Table Mountain a while ago. Not sure if that got into any headlines (in true trad style).


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 576
Real Name: Warren Gans
This year has also seen a change for the hardest line on Lions head twice- trad naturally- with more changes to come I'm sure.
I think because change is normally a slow thing people don't notice it. I mean, the RSA economy has doubled in 10 years, yet people still say things haven't changed fast enough.

I am surprised not to see head pointing not taking more of a presents with the younger guys: I think it is poo pooed enough by the older guys that people don't do it, but just like bolts progress climbing, so will head pointing progress trad

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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:55 am
Posts: 273
Location: Pretoria
Real Name: Brian Weaver
I'm keen to do Boa Rodeo (31) and Mlungu Goes to School (32) next week. Both are unrepeated. However, I am yet to find a person who is willing to join me for the mission of working these monsters.

Any volunteers?

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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:57 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Richard Halsey
To keep myself sane while I wait for my knee to recover, I have been scouting out/cleaning new lines on TM. Maybe 16 days of work to date. So far my guess is that 4 of them will be harder than 27...
Psyched! :thumleft:

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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 240
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
We are busy opening a mod-core route on Lower buttress's, TM goes at 23
And we have another 6 lines to finish, cleaning, climbing them, family, ARF and jobs are preventing us from doing it quicker!

Cormac


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 Post subject: Re: Hard Trad Revival
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Nadine Methner and I got spanked on Prime Time Direct at Yellowwood today and I think it is a sandbag at 24. I know the tricks, I know the gear and I am reasonably YW fit seeing as I have been there 4 times in 3 weeks and did Armageddon Time last week with Tony Dick which is sandbag 23. It still beat me in near perfect conditions and we bailed at the halfway ledge.

It is harder to on-sight - I think - than Uber Huber 25+. So all you Natalians and Gautengers and Capies, the challenge is on again. A bottle of Lagavulin if you on-sight it and I shall even give you the gear beta as it is seriously out there and very scary but is is not dangerous if you get the correct gear.

Oh an it is even a reach move!

Remember this is coming from a TATWOCIAN age 54 next Thursday who is seriously vertically challenged.

..... So no excuses you younguns....


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
Posts: 82
It is very pleasing to see climbers out placing gear being "old school". I seem to have picked up a trend in photos I have seen of climbers doing hard sport routes on trad, and/or doing old established trad routes with some bolts in place which are not used. Perhaps they were 'working' bolts. While I am impressed by the efforts, the fact that the bolts are present and can be clipped at anytime makes the ascent less impressive.


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