Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

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1armbandit
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:56 pm
Real Name: NiC Paidas

Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

Postby 1armbandit » Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:37 pm

When facing the crag at Strubens Valley if you walk away from all the normal climbs slightly further up and to the ritght there are routes like AKADIS 16 [5B, A] LEGOVAAN 18 [5B, A]

but even further to the right there is one more!! gasp.....

a really nice hard line 3 bolts and chains..

anyone know the Grade?
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Stijn
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 10:18 am
Location: Johannesburg

Re: Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

Postby Stijn » Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:57 pm

I have a vague memory of climbing this route... Had a look at my log-book and it seems I thought it to be 20/21 back in 2010. So it's been around for a little while. Can't remember more than that unfortunately...

Bigfoot
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 4:03 pm
Real Name: Andreas Kiefer

Re: Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

Postby Bigfoot » Wed Jan 23, 2013 5:41 pm

Going back 7-8 years so, maybe longer, I bolted a short route out right. Grade 20/21 sounds about right. It think it had three bolts, wedge expansion with hangers. Not glue-ins as in most of Strubens. Also the chains were of the type used by the MCSA at the time, with the chain split and rewelded around the Hanger. These chains were then plated and had a yellowish colour. If I remember the two chains were of different lengths, thus the bolts were slightly staggered. This route was also near the left side of a small outcrop.

It has been ages since I was last there, and my memory is not that great, but the picture you posed looks familiar. Not sure though.

I really do not want to claim someone elses route, but if the above sound right then I called it "Looking for Snakes". We happened to stumble across a small snake at the base of the route and tried in vain to find it afterwards in the grass. Just a bit of useless info for the snake lovers outthere :jocolor:

I will try and pop past there sometime and then confirm on this thread.

Andreas

1armbandit
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:56 pm
Real Name: NiC Paidas

Re: Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

Postby 1armbandit » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:43 am

thanks for the info guys sounds very much like what Andreas describes. One of the better Steuben's lines.
maybe it should be added to the route guide...

jgb
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 8:05 pm
Real Name: Jacques Breitenbach

Re: Mystery Climb at Strubens Valley.....

Postby jgb » Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:09 pm

Hey that could be mine. I bolted a route probably about year 2000. At the time it was the route thurtherest to the right of the main climbing area.
It looks a hell of a lot like it, 2 bolts and one above the small overhang then chains.
My bolts were glue ins so should be easy to distinguish from bigfoots who says his were expansion type bolts.
Tried hard to get it written up but back then the internet was in its infancy and doing things like that were much more difficult.
I called it Johnny Walker due to the massive hangover I had when I bolted it, I rated it an awekward 17/18, but I was strong back then maybe a 20 if I tried it now
:-)


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