Crack climbing

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smityb
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Crack climbing

Post by smityb » Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:37 pm

This sounds odd but where can one practice crack climbing in South Africa?

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Justin
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Justin » Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:15 pm

Crack of Dawn (17) at Lakeside and Peers Cave there is a (short) beautiful crack line (I forget the name).
There are a few crack lines at Paarl Rock too.

What you training for?
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Thermophage
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Thermophage » Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:16 pm

I also know a good plumber :|

smityb
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by smityb » Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:35 pm

Training for a trip to America next year.

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Funguye
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Funguye » Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:43 pm

Well this thread turned out to be much less exciting than expected. :safe:
Strangers have the best candy!

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henkg
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by henkg » Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:33 pm

Unfortunately mostly horizontal breaks in our sandstone. But you can still jamb many of them.

Some inspiration below.
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shorti
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by shorti » Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:20 am

Blyde

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robertbreyer
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by robertbreyer » Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:34 pm

RevealoMango @ Silvermine Main Crag has a decent vertical wide hand crack on it.
And Pistolero has a good move or two on it as well. Have seen one or two people falling out of it as it's a narrow hand jam.
Both grade 20.
And at CityROCK in the corner newish section you will find two pretty staunch hand jam sections as well.
Free coffee for you if you onsight one (only on TR, sorry).

Ray
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Ray » Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:42 pm

Try Bastille crack on Lion's Head granite. its a 20 offwidth that is quite memorable...

Julia Wakeling
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Julia Wakeling » Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:04 am

Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice. Take lots of #4 cams for That Thing. As AdK apparently said: "It's like trench warfare".
Mischief and Thuggery at Oorlogskloof.
Aquaballs at Blyde.
Pretenders at Boven.

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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Julia Wakeling » Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:11 am

Mischief and Thuggery....on trad
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niq
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by niq » Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:28 am

Highway man (16) on Lions head is also cool if you stay in the crack :)
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Chris F
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Chris F » Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:25 am

Julia Wakeling wrote:Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice.
Isn't Illearth Stone a nasty roofcrack too?

Warren G
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Warren G » Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:37 am

Julia that is a mad challenge! Well done, but I won't be trying any time soon. Boven also has some great crack, but I remember a prominent South African Climber once saying "Cracks are for South African climbers to bury their heads in and cry". South Africa is not the home of crack, but head for granite, and keep your chin up!
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Andy Davies
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Andy Davies » Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:32 pm

Best way to practice is to look for every oppurtunity to snuggle your hand into an accomodating crack. Don't be fussy about only fisting vertical cracks, horizontal ones provide good entertainment too. Some people even manage to jam in shallow pockets, but if you are off to Yosemite I suggest you get your whole body involved in chimneys and off widths. Don't forget to cover up appropriately, else you may contract Some Terrible Dings :mrgreen:
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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:08 am

Climb Africa Cracks on the Ledge, it's a 15 I think

Crack Baby at Legoland is climbable all in the crack
Happy climbing
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BruceT
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by BruceT » Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:17 am

Morgans Bay

Deon
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Deon » Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:14 pm

Harrismith, Eagle Mountain...
Above the campsite is dolerite clifs with amazing crags at places up to 70m high and hard aswell! Its basically unexplored, so you can do a bunch of FA's too :thumright
The walkin is tough though..

PS. If you find our nr3 BD cam, please leave it, we will return for it sometime

SNORT
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by SNORT » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:33 am

Wilgepoort has probably got the best crack climbing in South Africa

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Xenomorph
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Xenomorph » Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:34 am

Pride, grade 20 (best sandstone route on Lion's Head)
Pitch 2 is very good short finger layback crack with minimal feet, I highly recommend it.

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danglingdingle
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by danglingdingle » Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:15 pm

"Prelude to waste lands", First pitch is a beautiful, wide (#4 freind) laybabck crack.

Been up on it a couple of times, It is a bar fight from start to finish.

A few fist jams, one hand jam, layback and stem, bit of everything.

And has top rope chains.

Ghaznavid
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Ghaznavid » Wed Mar 06, 2013 6:54 pm

Ok - I see this is an old thread, but let me throw in my 2c worth... :mrgreen:

World's View in Pietermaritzburg has Widow Maker (15), Killer 1 (15) and Killer 2 (14). Zig-Zag (18) is also one on that crag. There is a really easy offwidth somewhere on there, but I haven't managed to find it before.
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Zig Zag is the crack near the tree on the left
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The left hand 2 cracks are Killers and The one in the corner is Widow Maker
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Xenomorph
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Xenomorph » Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:42 am

Some great crack (hand jam) pitches on No More Bells (19), Chess Pieces, Du Toits Kloof

karlbase
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by karlbase » Sat Mar 16, 2013 4:17 am

3rd pitch ( I think) of Satisfaction Guaranteed, Wolfberg.
Great line!

Brussel
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Brussel » Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:37 pm

Agree with No More Bells - brilliant cracks!

Also Satisfaction guaranteed - great 3rd pitch!

The crack variation to the 3rd pitch on Omega at Wolfberg is great, thin technical crack climbing for 40m :)

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Justin
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Justin » Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:13 pm

On Heaven Can Wait (23) at the Rose Bowl, the last 3 meters of the 2nd pitch has an awesome (slightly overhanging) crack.
Great route!
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Marshall1
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Marshall1 » Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:56 pm

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Chris F
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Chris F » Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:25 pm

Looks like it would be a bigger number than that!

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Xenomorph
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Xenomorph » Wed May 15, 2013 8:47 am

Great hand jams, finger locks and laybacking on Jam Puff, Lion's Head granite, Highly recommend this under rated route!

Chris F
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Re: Crack climbing

Post by Chris F » Wed May 15, 2013 11:15 am

I was telling one of the wide boyz about Cuckoo's Nest on TM, and tried, but failed, to find any pics of it online. Are there any about? I recall a sequence of Jeremy W-S in an old MCSA journal, and an article by jeremy Colenso in an old Southern Rock(?), but nothing online.

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