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 Post subject: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:07 pm
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Location: western cape
Real Name: Brandon
This sounds odd but where can one practice crack climbing in South Africa?


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Crack of Dawn (17) at Lakeside and Peers Cave there is a (short) beautiful crack line (I forget the name).
There are a few crack lines at Paarl Rock too.

What you training for?

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
I also know a good plumber :|


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:07 pm
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Location: western cape
Real Name: Brandon
Training for a trip to America next year.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:29 am
Posts: 107
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Ben Olivier
Well this thread turned out to be much less exciting than expected. :safe:

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:21 am
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Real Name: Henk Grobler
Unfortunately mostly horizontal breaks in our sandstone. But you can still jamb many of them.

Some inspiration below.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 694
Blyde


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:54 pm
Posts: 290
Real Name: CityROCK
RevealoMango @ Silvermine Main Crag has a decent vertical wide hand crack on it.
And Pistolero has a good move or two on it as well. Have seen one or two people falling out of it as it's a narrow hand jam.
Both grade 20.
And at CityROCK in the corner newish section you will find two pretty staunch hand jam sections as well.
Free coffee for you if you onsight one (only on TR, sorry).


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 77
Real Name: Raymond Kroger
Try Bastille crack on Lion's Head granite. its a 20 offwidth that is quite memorable...


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:04 am 
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Posts: 24
Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice. Take lots of #4 cams for That Thing. As AdK apparently said: "It's like trench warfare".
Mischief and Thuggery at Oorlogskloof.
Aquaballs at Blyde.
Pretenders at Boven.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:11 am 
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Mischief and Thuggery....on trad


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:39 am
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Real Name: Nick B
Highway man (16) on Lions head is also cool if you stay in the crack :)

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Julia Wakeling wrote:
Stem Gem and That Thing at Paarl are great practice.


Isn't Illearth Stone a nasty roofcrack too?


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Julia that is a mad challenge! Well done, but I won't be trying any time soon. Boven also has some great crack, but I remember a prominent South African Climber once saying "Cracks are for South African climbers to bury their heads in and cry". South Africa is not the home of crack, but head for granite, and keep your chin up!

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Best way to practice is to look for every oppurtunity to snuggle your hand into an accomodating crack. Don't be fussy about only fisting vertical cracks, horizontal ones provide good entertainment too. Some people even manage to jam in shallow pockets, but if you are off to Yosemite I suggest you get your whole body involved in chimneys and off widths. Don't forget to cover up appropriately, else you may contract Some Terrible Dings :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 773
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Climb Africa Cracks on the Ledge, it's a 15 I think

Crack Baby at Legoland is climbable all in the crack

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:17 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 12:08 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Durban
Real Name: Bruce Tomalin
Morgans Bay

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:23 pm
Posts: 35
Real Name: Deon Wessels
Harrismith, Eagle Mountain...
Above the campsite is dolerite clifs with amazing crags at places up to 70m high and hard aswell! Its basically unexplored, so you can do a bunch of FA's too :thumright
The walkin is tough though..

PS. If you find our nr3 BD cam, please leave it, we will return for it sometime


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 882
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Wilgepoort has probably got the best crack climbing in South Africa


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 245
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Pride, grade 20 (best sandstone route on Lion's Head)
Pitch 2 is very good short finger layback crack with minimal feet, I highly recommend it.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:15 pm 
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Real Name: Kevin Dingle
"Prelude to waste lands", First pitch is a beautiful, wide (#4 freind) laybabck crack.

Been up on it a couple of times, It is a bar fight from start to finish.

A few fist jams, one hand jam, layback and stem, bit of everything.

And has top rope chains.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Posts: 349
Real Name: Jonathan
Ok - I see this is an old thread, but let me throw in my 2c worth... :mrgreen:

World's View in Pietermaritzburg has Widow Maker (15), Killer 1 (15) and Killer 2 (14). Zig-Zag (18) is also one on that crag. There is a really easy offwidth somewhere on there, but I haven't managed to find it before.

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Zig Zag is the crack near the tree on the left

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The left hand 2 cracks are Killers and The one in the corner is Widow Maker

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 245
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Some great crack (hand jam) pitches on No More Bells (19), Chess Pieces, Du Toits Kloof


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 4:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:33 pm
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Real Name: Karl Hayden
3rd pitch ( I think) of Satisfaction Guaranteed, Wolfberg.
Great line!


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 173
Agree with No More Bells - brilliant cracks!

Also Satisfaction guaranteed - great 3rd pitch!

The crack variation to the 3rd pitch on Omega at Wolfberg is great, thin technical crack climbing for 40m :)


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
On Heaven Can Wait (23) at the Rose Bowl, the last 3 meters of the 2nd pitch has an awesome (slightly overhanging) crack.
Great route!

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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:56 pm 
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Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
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Almost horizontal roof crack boulder problem on the Lady Slipper(PE). Retribution - 7b(proposed)


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Looks like it would be a bigger number than that!


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 245
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Great hand jams, finger locks and laybacking on Jam Puff, Lion's Head granite, Highly recommend this under rated route!


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 Post subject: Re: Crack climbing
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 11:15 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
I was telling one of the wide boyz about Cuckoo's Nest on TM, and tried, but failed, to find any pics of it online. Are there any about? I recall a sequence of Jeremy W-S in an old MCSA journal, and an article by jeremy Colenso in an old Southern Rock(?), but nothing online.


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