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 Post subject: what rope?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2011 5:28 pm
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Real Name: Gareth
What are some of the better sport ropes to purchase.
*** Impact force, numbers of falls and features.

Cheers,
Gareth


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
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Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
A black one.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 9:06 am
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Location: Cape Town
A red Mammut


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
There's been a few threads about this; do the search and go read all the biased feedback :wink:
Lot's of reviews on the web as well, especially at some of the better online stores (e.g. Backcountry.com)

in short: the best rope depends on what you want to use it for.
Beginner / workhorse rope: 10,2mm approx
Advanced climber: 9,4 to 9,8mm
Thinner ropes available but takes less falls and wears more quickly (8,9mm mammut the thinnest?)

No bad ropes out there; but bigger bucks will buy you a better rope generall speaking. Nothing wrong with the likes of roca, tendon etc. though.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Disagree...9.8 for beginner climber. It has far better handling characteristics and will last you longer. You can relatively quickly go from a noob to an intermediate climber.
And I hate my 10.2 mm rope. Feels terrible to use and also is not lekker on a GriGri...
Go for a 9.8, it's a super nice compromise and will still be as safe and secure as a 10.2.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3037
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Below are the other threads on ropes that mokganjetsi mentioned.

- Best sport rope
- rope rope rope rope
- Favourite rope and why

With regards to rope diameter for a beginner, I'm of the opinion that larger is better for the reason that it will be slower and more forgiving through the device (beginners should learn on manual belay devices and not Grigri's).

I'm currently using Tendon ropes (10mm and 9.8mm) the 9.8 (which I use more) is start to show signs of wear after a year and half. That said the ropes are doing a fair amount of work between my personal use and guiding work.
I also own a 70m Edelrid Hawk (which doesn't go out too much these days)

Mammut and Edelrid are awesome ropes.
I have not had a Beal rope for a long time, but my last one was great.

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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 774
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
This will be your first rope? Thicker ropes handle less well but take abuse better than thinner ropes. Get a dedicated single rope for sport climbing, even if you think that you will get into trad climbing later. Ropes that are both single and half ropes do neither particularly well at all.

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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:26 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Hey Cuan
Each to his own here. I feel some comfort tying my 93kg frame to the sharp end of a 10+mm rope if little Sally-just-started-to-climb is handling the ATC. A 10,2mm rope handles beautifully in the Gri-Gri1. Curious as to why you say a 9,8mm rope will last longer than 10,2mm?

mho the "number of falls" are way overplayed as an indicator of the ropes safety. The odds of ever taking more than 2 of 3 falls on a rope as per the test specifications are supremely slim. Any rope that is certified to take 5+ falls is SAFE as far as I'm concerned. Ropes just don't break.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
Posts: 554
Location: Waterval Boven
Nice one Justin, quite diplomatic! :thumright

Difference in impact force from one to the next is not going to make a major difference on sport climbs, rather spend the time teaching your belayer dynamic belaying techniques!

Number of falls? Unless you are seriously pushing grades, working routes above what you have done before and taking repeated falls in the same place, don't worry about this.

An expensive dry coated (bla-bla-bla) rope will attract less dust etc. (bla-bla-bla). I can't see/feel the difference. Go for the cheap one :P

We have been using Tendon, Edelrid and now Beal Edlinger ropes for rentals. We also own Roca, Blue Water, Edelrid, loads of other Beals etc... The one thing that you will learn fast when handling many different ropes is that from one 10.2 to the next or one 9.8 to the next, you won't say they are the same diameter.

I would recommend that you play a bit of touch & feel some other peoples ropes :oops: and look at your style of climbing. If you are going to bring lots of friends along for the first time toproping etc, definitely look at something thicker than 9.8. The Edlinger is definitely a happy medium for nice handling and it runs much skinnier than other 10.2's that we have had.

Good luck

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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 331
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Hey Willem :) By last you longer I mean you are less likely to outgrow it.
My Edlinger (yes I know, very entry level 10.2 mm rope) I no longer enjoyed using as much as it got very stiff after a while of use. Even after taking it to Oudtshoorn and letting it un-twist itself nicely.
But maybe I got a dud...
So i went and bought a 9.4...couldn't be happier with it :) And I use it for working stuff, hard stuff, easy stuff, alles :)
9.4 is pretty skinny for a beginner, but 9.8 reallllly doesn't feel unsecure in an ATC compared to a 10.2. SO i favor buying one rope at a slightly narrower diameter which will be much nicer to use long term and which you are more likely to be happy using. But, counter to that, I know some people are super happy with their 10.2, so it is personal to some degree.
The Edelrid hawk is smack in the middle at 10mm...And the "Sport Braid" pattern on the sheath makes it handle like a dream through all devices. It is a beautiful rope to use...However, the sheath itself is not super durable from what Ive heard'. But then again...your rope is there to be used.

So get something that feels "nice" in your hand and that you would be happy using...Try a few different ones if possible. I wish I had been given that advice before buying my first rope :P ...

P.S. Anyone wanna buy a good condition Edlinger? :P


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
It's nice to have at least one crummy rope so that you can set-up a toprope on the 15 and let the newbies knock themsleves out. My go-to rope for redpointing is also 9.4mm - great balance between handling, lightness and durability.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Yep, loooove my Edelrid Falcon :D
But I have come to loathe my 10.2 to the point where I let people TR on the 9.4 :P Not that it is very often though ... thankfully :)

CR have a Roca and Mammut 9.8mm, as well as a Mammut 10mm. I think they still might have the Edelrid Hawk 10mm as well...If you can get the Hawk I'd go for it...But it's almost R1000 more than the Roca 9.8 :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
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Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
You must have a dodgy Edlinger. I've used four or five and they've all been lovely and supple. Not the thinnest, but solid workhorse ropes.

My only experience with Edelrid has been my Shikras, and I'm not super impressed with their wear-rate. They have a lovely hand. but are getting fuzzy alarming quickly.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Yeah Paul, I must have gotten a dodgey one. Although I have heard similar stories from others about the newer Edlingers :(
Anyway...Yep...they Shikra's to me feel like the trad version of the Hawk. Amazing to handle, but the sheath does not appear the most durable. However, a sport rope sheath is likely subject to less wear and tear than a trad rope in terms of scuffing against rock/etc, no?


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 696
Thermophage wrote:
a sport rope sheath is likely subject to less wear and tear than a trad rope in terms of scuffing against rock/etc, no?
Yes, in general that tends to be true, but you have more control over how much damage your ropes take with Trad climbing. Thinner = wear faster, but there are 2 ropes to share the load. Lowering is worse than rapping me thinks, BUT sport anchors are almost always less abrasive when it comes to pulling the ropes. That's where trad ropes gets most of their damage - pulling ropes from around trees, over edges and through cracks. Trad ropes also tend to get more dirt on them.


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
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Location: Waterval Boven
Quote:
That's where trad ropes gets most of their damage - pulling ropes from around trees, over edges and through cracks
.

Yes, but you are only pulling the weight of the rope. Every time you get lowered from chains on a sport route (average 6-10 times on a climbing day) your full weight is wearing over those skinny chains.

Whats the average on trad? You walk off very often or rap from fixed chains/gear where you also only pull the weight of the rope etc...

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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
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Yup, that's true :thumleft:


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2011 10:33 am
Posts: 31
Real Name: David Harding
Hey, heres my 2c worth:

For a first rope, don't get anything fancy. Its that simple. I've had a lot of experience with an Edelrid Hawk (10mm), and Beal Edlingers (10.2mm), and I own a Tendon Ambition 9.8mm (my first buy).

Out of those 3, by far the best i've used it the Tendon. They're amazingly priced, feel great, and so far mine has lasted through some serious abuse with very little signs of wear. The Hawk feels bulky, and the Edlingers just don't handle well at all in my opinion.

Tendon also makes Ambition 10mm and Ambition 10.2mm if you're looking for something thicker.

Cheers

(P.S. I'm not repping tendon, they just make good first ropes.)


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:09 pm
Posts: 15
Real Name: Immo Bartens
Surely its more about feel and weight? The difference between 10.2mm and 9.8mm is 4 pages of paper.Lets get the micrometers out


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 Post subject: Re: what rope?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 331
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Yeah Immo, it is about feel :)
9.8 def feels nicer to handle to me than 10.2 :D


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