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Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:22 pm


Post by NickT » Thu May 02, 2013 9:56 am

Hey 'bout a lil discussion on SA we don't regularly come across manufactured routes/boulders etc...every once in a while one comes across a glued on hold (from the dark ages...i.e. 90's) or some re-enforcement (Roof on fire...) but very rarely does one come across a chipped hold! It's common across the world to come across chipping and has seen some serious media attention of late with some classic boulders in Switzerland being chipped. Well, here comes our story...a little less classic but still...So I went to spot my girlfriend on her project up at CBD bright lights area on TM and I thought I would give The Nooner a bash and see if I can make a little progress. As many CT boulderers would know, the Nooner is a pretty good line, although eliminate, and comes in at 7B+ or 7C....depending on how one does for the lower grade one uses a gaston on the left near the top..there are actually two small little two finger crack lower down and a shitty one a bit higher whilst brushing the holds before climbing I suddenly noticed this higher gaston has grown...quite a bit actually... from being a small almost impossible to use quarter pad two finger gaston it is now a three finger gaston 'jug'. This is interesting because a week before I went up to spot my girlfriend (she was working Kung-fu flavour, the non-eliminate version of the nooner which escapes out right before the very hard moves) and the gastons on the nooner were the same as always! Now, I don't think anything can be done about this but it is quite obvious that someone who climbs pretty strong (if they were trying the nooner then they must at least be quite strong) and thus obviously knows a lot about climbing, did this. And thus, more than likely reads this forum! So to who ever did this....please don't ever do this again. There are so many boulder problems out there to be done and if you can't do something on one of them, go and try a different one or get better and stronger and then come back!

Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
Real Name: Ghaznavid

Re: Chipping

Post by Ghaznavid » Thu May 02, 2013 11:43 am

That's shocking :puker:

If someone can't climb something, they should train harder - don't modify the rock. :x
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

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