CLEFT PEAK: Diagonal Gully Route (D)
(Map #2 : AH:52 : 3277m)
Opening Party: Doyle Liebenberg, Tony Hooper, and Hans & Else Wongtschowski.
Time: 6 hours.
The climb starts directly under the main cleft and below the highest point of the main peak. The line follows a single gully that runs diagonally up to the right and reaches the top of the escarpment at a point about one kilometre north west of the summit. The route is about C/D grade with the first pitch being the most difficult. This may well prove an interesting snow route.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1941, pg 24.
Has anyone on the site done this one? It sounds great, and not so difficult that the bad 'Berg rock should make a climber, well, take a few spare pairs of underwear
If I am interpreting it correctly, the route is roughly the red line in the photo:
Comments on the actual route, difficulty, protection etc would be greatly helpful.