Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
Ghaznavid
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Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby Ghaznavid » Wed May 01, 2013 8:16 pm

Off the MCSA KZN website:

CLEFT PEAK: Diagonal Gully Route (D)

(Map #2 : AH:52 : 3277m)

Opening Party: Doyle Liebenberg, Tony Hooper, and Hans & Else Wongtschowski.

Date: 1941.

Time: 6 hours.

The climb starts directly under the main cleft and below the highest point of the main peak. The line follows a single gully that runs diagonally up to the right and reaches the top of the escarpment at a point about one kilometre north west of the summit. The route is about C/D grade with the first pitch being the most difficult. This may well prove an interesting snow route.

Ref: MCSA Journal 1941, pg 24.


Has anyone on the site done this one? It sounds great, and not so difficult that the bad 'Berg rock should make a climber, well, take a few spare pairs of underwear :lol:

If I am interpreting it correctly, the route is roughly the red line in the photo:

Cleft.jpg
Cleft.jpg (72.42 KiB) Viewed 1870 times


Comments on the actual route, difficulty, protection etc would be greatly helpful. :thumleft:
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

BruceT
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby BruceT » Thu May 02, 2013 8:34 am

Hi Jonathan.
I suggest you post this query on the KZN MCSA group mail - click on the link under mailing list on the kzn website http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/
C ya,
Bruce
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Neil
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby Neil » Thu May 02, 2013 9:07 am

Hi Ghaz

I think the photo is not the gully, I think it is the Cleft Frontal route. Check with Gavin R.

BAbycoat
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby BAbycoat » Thu May 02, 2013 9:36 am

Don't underestimate the approach.

We gave Cleft a shot a few years ago. Four hours into the walk-in we still hadn't put on our harnesses and decided that sunset swims in rock pools were preferable to epic torchlight runout 'berg scrambles with probable exposed bivvies.

Some day I'll get fitter and go back ...

Ghaznavid
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby Ghaznavid » Thu May 02, 2013 11:47 am

Thanks guys.

Ok - it would make sense that this isn't the route. I need to look at more photos and see if I can work this one out.

I was considering doing it soon, but the exposure on the route looks insane and the approach makes it a 2 day route - the descent down Organ Pipes/Thuthumi/Tseketseke Pass makes it necessary to haul the darn overnight packs up and probably finish at night/on day 3...

Maybe I'll go with the Inner and Outer Horn instead, otherwise maybe my possible new route (looks much easier than the standard route) on Middle Sterkhorn.
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

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AndrewP
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby AndrewP » Thu May 02, 2013 1:47 pm

Hello Ghaz

The key to finding the route you want is that it finishes 1km north of the summit of Cleft Peak. It starts under the summit. I suspect it will be exposed and scary, but that is based on general berg conditions, nothing more. You will make life considerably easier for yourself if you ditch the pack and do it in a day! Camp near the base: hike there on Friday night, climb on Sat and return to camp, and then easy hike out on Sunday.

Inner Horn is very easy. The (new) std route is tricky to find, but once you are in the area, it is easy enough to find a way up.

The std route of Outer Horn contains 2 sections of easy moves with instant death with no way to protect.

Cheers
Andrew

Ghaznavid
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby Ghaznavid » Thu May 02, 2013 2:17 pm

The reason I thought it may be this gully is that it starts more or less under the gully and ends fairly far from the highest point - if I'm correct, the cleft itself is the gully hidden from view around the corner there. But I'm not 100% sure.

I have been told that about the Inner Horn Standard Route, but apparently there are tons of easy variations on the standard route. Nothing too challenging.

The 2 sections you are talking about on the Outer Horn are the 2m traverse over the slab near the start of the route (with a large fall below toward the contour path) and the 8m C+ arete, right? My understanding is that the arete would basically be free climbed, the lead would anchor off the abseil station above it and the rest of the team would top rope it.

Does this sound about right?
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

Ghaznavid
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby Ghaznavid » Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:44 am

After some research I have concluded the route I marked was Godbold's frontal route.

There was a massive rock fall a few hundred meters to left (south) of the Cleft this last weekend. I imagine it was caused by the daily freezing and melting of water in cracks on the face.

IMG_1914_2013-06-19.JPG
Photo by Graham Offord
IMG_1914_2013-06-19.JPG (187.83 KiB) Viewed 1581 times

Photo stolen from a hiking forum who's name, after recent accusations against me, I will not mention :lol:
"There is something fundamentally wrong in treating the Earth as if it were a business in liquidation." Herman E Daly

shorti
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Re: Cleft peak Diagonal Gully Route

Postby shorti » Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:54 am

Damn, I thought it was a fire!


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