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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 am
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Location: London, United Kingdom
Real Name: Stephen Martindale
I'm looking for a good R.D. for "Eclipse", at Wolfberg.

I see it listed on the "Trad. Hit List" on the wiki, at grade 13. Since I have little knowledge of the Wolfberg area and it is both mentioned and at a grade I'm fairly confident I won't struggle with, it looks like a good route to plan into a weekend trip in the region.

If you have one you can post, please post it. Pictures with or without lines drawn on them would be greatly appreciated, as would GPS coordinates for the start, if available. Alternatively, please point me towards a sufficient book of words or MCSA journal. If it is a massive sand-bag, please warn me.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Xharlie wrote:
If it is a massive sand-bag...
Please send us a report to publish here :twisted:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:19 pm 
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Real Name: Henk Grobler
The guide book on Wolfberg is sufficient. You can get this at any gear shop in WC. And I recall that the shop at Sandrift also stock this.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Eclipse is probably the best easy route on the Wolfberg, simply magnificent. The way it threads itself through the hard climbing is brilliant. The RD in the Wolfberg guide is more than sufficient, there are also a couple of pictures in the guide of people climbing the route. The start is fairly obvious, it starts to the right of "Quite Something" and to the left of "Satisfaction Guaranteed", both of which are very obvious lines. You start one level up from the traverse path, look for a beacon marking the start (probably only visible once you are on the right level), just scramble up on to the ledge somewhere near the start. The start is also marked by a line of horizontal holes in the rock about 3m up.

First pitch is straight up to a large ledge, second pitch is a traverse/walk along the ledge to the start of the third pitch. Third pitch is a step or two right from the stance, up to the roof, rail right and up. Gain a large ledge that juts out of the face with a fairly strenuous pull up on to it and that is the stance. From there climb straight up from the ledge( getting off the ledge is probably the crux of the route - has really good gear to protect it) to the top with a stance on another large ledge about halfway. The top pitch you can pick and choose your line the grade is going to be the same pretty much everywhere.

The first pitch:
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Start of the third pitch, go straight up to the roof from the obvious jug, then rail right.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 am
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Real Name: Stephen Martindale
Thanks, Nic! Now all we need is a free weekend... damn this day job.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:52 pm
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Johann Lanz
Just want to endorse all the good things already said about Eclipse. I recently took my 10 year old son up it as his first ever multi-pitch trad experience. I hadn't climbed it before and was very impressed by the quality of the route. In my opinion its one of the best routes of its grade anywhere. Pic of the final moves on pitch 6.


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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 4:59 pm 
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Real Name: Stephen Martindale
We climbed Eclipse. Here are some comments:

Firstly, we couldn't quite find the base of the climb. We scrambled up to the level from which the climb starts and found ourselves about ten metres to the left of the start, staring at Eclipse's cairn from the other side of a gully so we just climbed up and traversed before rejoining P1 and finishing it as normal. The rope drag was manic.

The ledge from which P4 starts featured not one but three cairns and what we thought was Eclipse P4 (five metres to the right of our stance, along the ledge, according to the R.D.) looked uninviting so we climbed straight up above our stance on the left end if the ledge. This was juggy, incredibly well protected but a little tougher than 13 in my book. The route headed up, tending leftwards, to a 40cm wide gap between the face on the left and a block. This made an easy chimney to a great ledge. Stance on said ledge.

From there, we traversed right (and slightly up) until we saw a blank, red face. We realised this was slightly too far right of where we should have built a stance but built one there, anyway. We simply headed back left a bit as we started climbing the next pitch.

Thus ended the difficult route finding. The rest was "up".

Communication was blissfully easy in the silent, still Cederberg. The greatest problem was the temperature of the rock - even jugs feel sketchy when your fingers have gone numb.

Finding Gaper Crack and our way down turned out to be non-trivial and the billions of cairns that adorn the venue were no help at all.

All in all, it was a great experience. The photographs don't quite live up to those from Fountain Ledge on the first of May but the memories do.


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