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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:34 am 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:31 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Andrew Louw
Hi all.
Perhaps I just need to grow a bigger pair, but I really feel that this superb route needs another hanger at the second crux above the rounded bulge ledge. And from the big cross marked on the rock where I would have placed it, I think that there is at least one other person who also feels this way 

I do not know who did the First Accent or Bolting on this, or I would have asked them directly.

For the guys out there climbing 26’s this would not be an issue because you won’t fall at this really awkward and scary pinch, layback, wedge move to get up to the next hanger. For the rest of of us trying to get up to this grade (22) from mere 19’s there is a very real risk of falling face first on the ledge if your footwork is not up to scratch (or if you are pumped to hell after doing the most amazing face climb to get here. I am SOOOOO stoked I managed to do it)

Cheers

(p.s. I have a buddy with the necessary gear and can place this hanger myself, but I need some kinda permission from the FA/BB person or the climbing community)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 696
Ag nee man Andrew! There's a bolt right there :? You can clip it before you do the move through the overlap. Maybe you're talking about something else.

Btw, it's Stephen Mallory's route, so good luck asking a Mallory to soften up a route! :twisted:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 376
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
Nope, not necessary. I've seen people fall off that move and they were fine. Get stronger or stick-clip if you're worried. :thumleft:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:51 am 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:31 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Andrew Louw
hahahahahaha

Seems i need to man-the-hell-up :-)

Thanks for the feedback. I will try it again and see if i can get there less pumped, more in control and with more guts


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:04 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1168
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
and downgrade it to 21 while you're at it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:42 pm
Posts: 123
I think the bolt is a tad too high if you don't have the reach of shorty but there is a good hand jam from which to clip. Also agree with mok should maybe be a 21


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:13 am
Posts: 153
Location: Benoni
Real Name: David Wade
It definitely does not need a another bolt.
Please don't overbolt it.
You won't hit the ground if you fall.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 11:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:31 pm
Posts: 50
Real Name: Marllu da Conceicao
I dont think its the ground that we are worried about just the ankle breaking ledge just below the ledge.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 11:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1168
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
if you're competent at the grade you probably won't fall. and you can have a nice long rest on the ledge. not sure if you will hit the ledge should the worst happen. can't remember the route that well - is there any possbility to protect the meter or two above the ledge with trad pro?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:31 pm
Posts: 50
Real Name: Marllu da Conceicao
yea i was able to spot quite a few possible placements but didnt have my gear on me :(


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:42 pm
Posts: 123
Lubags what self respecting sport climber doesn't have a trad rack in their pack to protect those awkward or dangerous clips. :lol: :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:56 am 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:31 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Andrew Louw
:mrgreen:

I got awesome beta on that clip......so dont continue reading if you want to Onsight it :)

It is a strange idea that i would never have thought of but I can totally see it working. And it will remove the perceived danger of the awkward clip.
Its basically a two stage attack of the single problem

1) You are standing comfortably on the ledge. There is a lekker crack just about by your right shoulder. You can do a killer hand jam and apparently there is one of the best finger/knuckle locks there somewhere as well. Do this, get your feet up a bit, pull/stand up, reach up and clip the hanger and your rope. Now lower yourself back down to the ledge
2) Reset and climb.

The grips and body positioning for actually climbing through this overlap/roof is way different to what you would use to clip the hanger. That is why it was awkward and dodge as hell to clip this sucker while I was desperately trying not to fall off (I am not competent at this grade yet)

Thanks all :jocolor:


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