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 Post subject: Montagu trad climbing
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:13 pm
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Real Name: Christopher
Hey...I am hoping some of you can share with me any beta you have on trad climbing in the Montagu area!

I know there is a topo/route description floating around for Eagle's Folly from one of the MCSA journals: if someone has this easily accessible, definitely PM me!

Additionally, besides just trad climbing some of the sport lines in the area (some seem to take good gear), I know that the Lost World crag is nearby as well, but it seems there are some access issues. That 20 handcrack (Nuclear Waste?) looks soo clean, I'd love to get on it, but what is the current access situation? I can't find anything recently, except for on the wiki page that indicates you can still climb there if you stay at Les Hauts de Montagu -- is this the case? Additionally, if it is accessible, are there any topos available for the Lost World Crag?

Any information, however general or specific, would be highly appreciated!

Thanks :)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Hi,
Lost World is closed to climbing (unless you are staying there) and yes, Nuclear Waste is an awesome route!!

Eagles Folly is a great route! I have added a route description to the Wiki including the walk-in. Now is a good time to go and do the route (because of the mild temps). Start early if you go during summer).

There is Trad climbing at The Farm / Climbing on R62 (which was recently acquired by climbers :thumleft:)
There is anther area with Trad on it, I however need to go and negotiate proper access before making it public.

The Gospel Express (17) at The Steeple can be tradded as well as a few routes in the Middle Area (the trad crack has anchors at the top) - read routes left to right.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Location: Cape Town (mostly :) )
Leonard and I opened a route at The Rosebowl in Keurkloof. We wrote it up in the 'old book at de Bos' - it was called Equine something...had something to do with a horse skull we found on route. It was quite good if my memory serves, 2 pitches I think.

There's definitely more in that Kloof, and remember that much of what is now Bosch crag was originally trad - if you can get access to Bosch....skip the bolts and use the chains (to make single-pitching easy and convenient :-) )


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:47 pm 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Yes, most of the routes at Bosch used to be trad. Unfortunately Boschkloof is closed to all climbing at the moment.
I'm hoping to have positive news on Boschkloof access soon!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:34 pm 
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Real Name: Christopher
thanks a bunch guys for the great beta! Seems like "Les Hautes de Montagu" might be a kind of pricey place to stay unfortunately, so maybe I'll just have to miss out on Lost World. I'll definitely check out the stuff at the Farm/R62 -- looks like some fun routes! Yeah, I climbed Gospel Express once on the bolts, and saw so much bomber gear; I'll have to bring the rack out to the Steeple next time I'm there.

Yeah, too bad about Boschkloof. I climbed that 18 crack at Legoland on gear (too good!), in addition to the crumbly corner L of Buon Giorno Bambina last time I was there. That's awesome Justin, keep up the good work with access issues -- hopefully that situation changes soon!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 3:56 pm 
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Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
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This looks promising. Its at the Guano Cave as you drive out of Montagu towards Barrydale.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Every time I drive to Montagu I look longingly at this crag on the left as you approach the tunnel. Does anyone know what the access story is here?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 7:50 pm 
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Oh nice, Nic. I'm curious as well if anyone knows what's up with that crag!

Marshall1 wrote:
This looks promising. Its at the Guano Cave as you drive out of Montagu towards Barrydale.


Wow now that looks pretty cool, some decent, climbable cracks for sure. Does anyone know if this has been climbed before, or what the access situation is?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:13 pm 
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Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
Its a tourist farm, camping, ponies, tractor rides +++. They were happy to have climbing, but expect to pay some sort of entrance fee or promise open some routes & get more climbers there.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:06 am 
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Marshall1 wrote:
Its a tourist farm, camping, ponies, tractor rides +++. They were happy to have climbing, but expect to pay some sort of entrance fee or promise open some routes & get more climbers there.


Derek, I assume you are talking about the "Guano cave" pic you posted rather than the crag I posted?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Justin wrote:
There is anther area with Trad on it, I however need to go and negotiate proper access before making it public.


That would be Guano Caves... I will visit the owner to chat about access.

This crag mentioned by Nic below (on the left before going through the tunnel). There are two separate properties there (the one with multiple owners). Neither are terribly keen on climbers... someone is going to have a chat with the owner of the right hand side property.

Boschkloof: We are making headway here, thank you to everyone for abiding to the ban.
We are optimistic that the area open to climbing in the future.

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