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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 12:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm
Posts: 27
A couple weekends ago Craig Turvey and I opened a new route at Rooiberg. This route meanders from the start of Swazi Kings and romps across Awkward Ape, Crackattack and Blunt Brothers before finally ending up on Kif Kids' final headwall. The rock is excellent and the pitches were superb. We felt extremely lucky and privileged to have found such a classic line on a relatively well travelled part of the mountain. I can heartily recommend the route to anyone looking for a fun morning out (the face gets afternoon sun and rapidly becomes unpleasantly hot). The route is graded at 16 and we felt it deserved a full 5 stars.

Check out the wiki.

Enjoy!

-David Mercer


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 599
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Looks great and a brilliant name, might have to borrow it!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:50 pm
Posts: 20
Real Name: Malcolm Venter
Thank you David!
We climbed the route on Saturday and I can confirm that it is 5 stars on every pitch. A really amazing route. Well done guys.
The RD was excellent. The final pitch in particular is spectacular.

I have taken the liberty of drawing a topo. I wasn't sure where to send it, so I'll upload it here. I can send through a higher res file or a photoshop file if you let me know where to send it. I hope that this doesn't offend anyone.


Attachments:
Topo_of_Rooiberg_showing_the_latest_new_trad_routes_ver_4.jpg
Topo_of_Rooiberg_showing_the_latest_new_trad_routes_ver_4.jpg [ 210.96 KiB | Viewed 785 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 pm
Posts: 27
Hi Malcolm,

I'd been meaning to reply for a while but hadn't gotten around to it till now. Thanks for the enthusiastic response to Meanderthal - Craig and I were very pleased with the route and delighted that others are enjoying it too. Thanks too for the topo - it looks pretty spot on.

I hope many more enjoy the route and get as much of a kick out of Rooiberg as we have done.

All the best,
David


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:59 am
Posts: 13
I don't think the topo is correct. The final section, with the dashed blue line, is incorrect. The final stance and traverse line are much lower, and once on the final wall (to the right of the offwidth), the route pretty much goes straight up the face.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:59 am
Posts: 13
Attachment:
final pitch meanderthal.jpg
final pitch meanderthal.jpg [ 147.26 KiB | Viewed 277 times ]
At the base of the photograph (to the right of the offwidth), you can see a roof. This feature can clearly be made out on the topo photograph. The traverse line on the left hand wall is below this feature.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:59 am
Posts: 13
The final stance is actually where the blue dashed line begins (refer to topo). There is a ledge at this level.

The final pitch follows this ledge (traverse right, facing the wall), aiming for the offwidth in the corner.
Once at the offwidth, it is possible to pull up and step right onto the final headwall. From here, the route goes pretty much straight up, stepping right at one point to avoid a small roof (refer to the photo I posted).

It is also probably worth mentioning that the route can be followed back down via a few (I think 3) abseils. Whilst climbing the route, you will notice the odd ab-station here and there (bring your own ab-tat). This is a quick descent and way more convenient than walking all the way back down. The final ab is the same one used for Crackattack, and will land you right back at the start of the route, so you can leave your approach shoes and excess gear behind ;)


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