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 Post subject: Rope Guns, 30 or Harder
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 4:29 pm 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Hi Folks

Clinton and I thought it might be good to write a list of climbers in RSA who can climb 30 currently. To qualify they have to have done one in the last 6 months, or be in the right form to do so done one in the past. It isn't fair to include people who might be capable but lack the desire to do so, such as many boulderers.

The point of this list primarily is to motivate those who ought to be on it but aren't, (such as Justin Hawkins) to get off the couch and start training. It is a bit gossipy, but I was hoping everyone could name people I have omitted, and people are welcome to debate the merits of individuals chances (please keep it light hearted) as I don’t know of current form. I started the list by naming people off the top of my head, then copied off 8a.nu, however there are many missing. I will edit this post or post updates.

Western Cape

Clinton Martinengo
Matt Bush
Douw Stein
Sean Maarsch
Andy Davies
Flip Olivier
Danie Moolman
Alan Hills
Jacobus (of Swak)
Steve Bradshaw Sr
Steve Bradshaw Jr
Gosia
Marijus
Clifford Hakimi
Jimbo
Keith Forbes
Matt Schnuewly
Ben de Chamoix
Harry Crews
Adam Ludford
Craig Burden
Warren Gans (eventually)

Gauteng
Brian Weaver
Andrew Pedley
Greg Borman
Rian Venter
Ebert Nel
Ivan Van der Tang
Jahne Theron
Garvin Roering
Johannes Hachmann
Alex Bester
Flex AKA Marc Efune
Sarel Van Rensburg (not sure)
Falco (not sure)
Don Williams
David Wade

KZN
Faye
Roger
Scott Sinclair

Other Provinces
Gustav
Danny Pinkas

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Last edited by Warren G on Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:41 pm 
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Don't understand this: To qualify they have to have done one in the last 6 months, or be in the right form to do so done one in the past.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:48 pm 
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@paul, sending 30 isn't news worthy anymore, that's why it has to be mentioned on the forum :pirat:

Ebert Nel
i'm a pirate ok
bovenfestival.com


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:32 am 
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I'd be more interested in a list of total South Africans who have ever sent 8a. Including retirees. Think it would be longer than expected.

Are there really only 3 people from KZN right now?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:37 am 
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Real Name: Stephen Martindale
Put stars next to their name if they've done it on trad.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:26 am 
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To be on the list you have to be in current form to do 30, and have demonstrated in the recent past that you have sent one. One trick ponies from 90's don't count: this is about current form.

I agree that a list of all who have ever sent the grade would also be interesting, but less relevant. I am trying to prove a theory that only about 1% of climbers are at that grade at anyone time, which should also mean that historically that this number holds true. I don't think this is the case as we are where we are because of the people that have come before us, and so the better. Last year there was a thread that thought there are about 5000 RSA climbers, and so I suspect there are about 50 grade 30 or harder climbers in current form right now. This makes my list above woefully short.

Ebert the only reason why 30 isn't the big thing it once was to you is because you are past it, but I ask you this: if it isn't such a big thing, why does it take so many years to send that grade? 30 is chosen because it is the 8a conversion, but also because so few people get that far in their climbing. Surely over 95% of routes in RSA are less than this grade meaning there is little need to climb that hard, one has to want it enough.

I understand that there is a reluctance to claim the grade publicly for various reasons, but I think these climbers should be celebrated for the achievements they have made: they are our defacto leaders who push the sport forward, and I think same reasons why they would be reluctant to publicize themselves is the same reasons why we aren't better climbers. Don't blame our rock, blame our attitudes towards excellence.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:42 am 
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Real Name: phlip olivier
Xharlie wrote:
Put stars next to their name if they've done it on trad.
Ah, how about a list of those that have done a triple 8? (boulder, sport and trad 8A/a)

Clinton
Jimbo
Danie (of SWAK :wink: )
Joe Möhle

These are the ones I know of. Sure there must be more.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:29 am 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Great List Lelikegogga! The obvious ones I can think of is Marjius and Paul bruyere, but I'm not sure of the trad. You would think people like Paul Brouard, Wes Black, Arjian, Alan Hills, Douw Stein, Gosia, Brian Weaver etc would be working towards it, but everyone is going down their own path.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 12:21 pm 
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Lots of years to climb 8a? ashima shiraishi, aged 13, top ranked female boulderer in the world
Martin, aged 20, from Netherlands, 2nd time on rock in rocklands, 1 year 6months of climbing in total. HIS COUNTRY DOESNT HAVE ROCK. Boulders 8A+

Ebert Nel
Our kids are stuck in gyms


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:38 pm 
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Ebert, I understand that you are trying to divert this conversation for the purposes of trolling, perhaps to sooth egos by belittling a grade you have superseded. Ultimately what you are doing is beating your own chest, so well done. You are my hero. Thanks for proving my last point two posts up. Now that you have said all this can you name people who I have missed who conform to the above stipulations, or is your only purpose on this thread that which I have already mentioned?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:06 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
WTF is my name doing on here? :| I'm a lazy shit!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:08 pm 
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Location: Benoni
Real Name: David Wade
Mathew Hoffman sent Jack of all trades last saturday, so add him.
Evan Margets hasn't sent 8a, but is perfectly capable, he just needs to go do it.
Other Provinces: Danny Pinkus ?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:12 pm 
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Real Name: David Wade
And Flex has done above 30 (don't know his surname)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
:|


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:36 pm 
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are you now angry because your name is not on the list? or because you want someone to say you should be on the list?

its funny how everyone on this list is old.

Where are the kids?

I'm not trolling, not on this post at least:)

eT


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:39 pm 
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When you're good enough you don't need a surname. Think Neymar, Pele, Sting, Madonna etc.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:46 am 
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Real Name: Madelein Crews
You are all forgetting the maddest and raddest of them all - Harry Crews! Can I get a hell yeah!!!?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:30 pm 
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hell yeah!!! Harry is a beast


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 3:31 pm 
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More interesting to me would be how long each climbed for before they got their first 30 and at what age it was.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 4:01 pm 
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agreed :thumleft:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:08 pm 
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Oh, add Biffy to that list, crushing montagu like a monster.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:12 am 
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Forket wrote:
Martin, aged 20, from Netherlands, 2nd time on rock in rocklands, 1 year 6months of climbing in total. HIS COUNTRY DOESNT HAVE ROCK. Boulders 8A+
Our kids are stuck in gyms


So how did he get so strong then? Getting stuck in at a gym??


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:21 pm 
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Quote:
I'm not trolling, not on this post at least:)

Just patrolling? :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:02 pm 
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I think a more interesting, and much shorter, list would be how many of these 30 something's have full time jobs, two or more children, and are still married to the mother of their children :)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:25 pm 
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@Chris F, He got stuck in a climbing gym for a year and a half, while partying and working in a partybus first/second year after matriculating. The difference was that its a bouldering gym...

@Gustav :lol:

@Richard: Clinton is my hero in that regard. No kids, that I know of, but when he comes home from work.... CRUSHES

:mrgreen:
eT


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