AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

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AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Wed Oct 26, 2016 12:07 pm

After the second successful BMC/MCSA exchange in 2016 members of the South African trad climbing community are again invited to participate in a similar event in 2017. A group of America's best trad climbing talent will be visiting us here and a South African Team will travel to the USA later in the year around September 2017. If you are interested to participate in the local and/or offshore event then please send me a PM with your email address.

Younger enthusiastic keen climbers are encouraged to apply.

The local event will take place in the Western Cape and Gauteng and the trad climbing venues under consideration include the following:

Table Mountain
Yellowwood and Hellfire
Wolfberg possibly with a rock rally that will include sport climbing
Possibly Rooiberg in conjunction with a Tradathon hosted by Black Diamond.
Possibly Magaliesberg in conjunction with a Tradathon hosted by Black Diamond

Other venues under consideration include Wilgepoort and Makapansgat.

The first part of the event will take place over the long weekend of 17 March to 21 March probably in the Cederberg. However the event may start in Gauteng once logistics are sorted out.

All and Sundry are invited to join the local event except possibly participation at Tafelberg due to the acute water shortage there in March. However, if individuals are able to carry water for themselves, then there is plenty of space up there to camp.

Numbers may be limited but the organizers will arrange instructional courses at all the venues for as many less experienced individuals wishing to participate as possible. Depending on the amount of volunteers than can be mustered and funding obtained, it may necessitate paying a small fee so as ensure we can "employ" sufficient instructors to assist in this regard. However basic knowledge of rope work and trad climbing techniques is required. In this regard it is most important approach your local MCSA branch and head out on to some real rock on a meet.

The team travelling to the USA will be chosen on "climbing" merit as far as that is possible but individuals will have to fund themselves at least for the airline trip. Once there you should be hosted by the American participants. The organizers will endeavor to assist in accessing funding (such as air miles) for our more impecunious, younger climbers.

Applications are now open for the Team so please PM me if your are interested.

Your organizing team will be indentified and further details will follow.

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AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Sun Jan 08, 2017 4:17 pm


From the 14 to 28 March a group of American climbers are visiting South Africa on an exchange programme similar to that held with the BMC last year. Please diarise the dates that will include hosting and climbing with our American Counterparts in and around the Cederberg, the Cape Peninsula and Du Toit’s Kloof until the 24 of March. Thereafter the group will head up north to climb in the Magaliesberg and Blouberg.

There is a 4 day long weekend from the 17 to 21 March that is included in the time period and the plan is to head for the Cederberg over that time

All members are welcome to participate in the local event and details of the itinerary will be posted on the Facebook event page, On Climb.co.za and also disseminated via caperocknews from time to time.

The final itinerary will depend on whether there is access to certain climbing areas as some have been badly affected by wild fires.

Should anyone wish make themselves available for selection to travel to the USA later this year on the second leg of the exchange, then please email me your request and a short climbing CV (bio). (CEdelstein@GMail.com)

Younger talented climbers will be given preference.

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by jimbo » Sat Jan 14, 2017 12:29 pm

Application for American Alpine Club (AAC) – MCSA trad exchange team
Applications due Monday 6 Feb 2017

The latest information for the AAC-MCSA trad exchange and the application details are copied below

For more information please contact Jimbo (083 305 7593), Snort (charles@millstone.co.za 082 375 0310), Illona (Illona@cityrock.co.za 071 802 2737) or Johann (lanz.johann@gmail.com 082 927 9018)

A team will be selected based on applications received by 6 Feb 2017. Any additional places will be filled by late submissions.

Overview of SA leg: 14 – 28 March 2017

• The structure will be similar to the 2016 British Mountaineering Council – MCSA trad exchange.
• 10 AAC climbers will visit SA for 2 weeks in March to be hosted and climb with a core team of 10 MCSA climbers plus any other local climbers who want to tag along for the ride. The idea is that we show case some of our best climbs and destinations to our US visitors.
• The MCSA team will be selected based on:
o Their commitment to the event (able to take 2 weeks leave in March),
o Climbing merit (particularly onsight ability)
o Trad experience or potential to develop as a trad climber (you will need to know what nuts and cams are),
o Potential to contribute to the event (hosting, driving, telling jokes, eye candy etc)
o Being an MCSA member
o Youth (we will accept climbers of any age but definitely want to encourage some younger climbers to take part eg low to mid 20s)
• Additional local climbers not selected for the event are encouraged to join for sections of the event.
• Depending on funds raised we hope to cover most of the teams expenses and will aim to organise food, travel and accommodation. Others will have to cover their own costs and organise themselves.
• Climbing destinations still need to be finalised but will include Table Mountain, Du Toits kloof (Yellowwood, Hell fire etc), Blouberg, Magaliesberg (Unfortunately the Cederberg may no longer be an option because of the recent fires)
• Likely itinerary (subject to change): Cape 14 to ~20 March, Gauteng ~20 to 28 March.

Overview of US leg

• Details are fuzzy at this stage
• At some point later this year or early next year, 10 MCSA climbers will visit the US for ~2 weeks to be hosted and climb with the AAC team.
• All food, transport and accommodation expenses while in the US should be covered (depending on funds available).
• Most team members will need to buy their own flights to the US. Depending on funds raised we hope to subsidise the cost of ~3 flights based on financial need, youth and potential of the climber.
• The MCSA core team from the SA leg will be given preference to go to the states.
• For those that are not selected for the SA core team in March but would still like to go to the states, participation in the local event will count favourably for their selection to travel to the US.

Application procedures for MCSA Team.

If you would like to take part as a team member please send the following information to Jimbo at jamiesmith88@gmail.com with MCSA-AAC application in subject title by 6 Feb 2017 (do not re post it on this forum). Please do this even if you have already sent Snort your Bio.

1. Personal details
a. Name:
b. Age:
c. Address:
d. Cell number:
e. Email:

2. Are you available to take part in the exchange for:

a. The entire 2 weeks between 14 and 28 March 2017?
b. The Cape leg 14 - ~20 March
c. The Gauteng leg ~20 – 28 March
d. Other dates (please specify)

3. Please provide a Climbing Bio of yourself (~ 1 paragraph highlighting your climbing history, climbing preference, climbing personality, quirks etc). This may be posted online.

4. Comment on your trad experience or potential as a trad climber.

5. List a few of your more notable climbing achievements.

6. Comment briefly on how you think you might add value/ contribute to the trad exchange (local knowledge, driver, willingness to help cook, clean etc.)

7. Are you an MCSA member?

8. If not, will you join the MCSA if selected for the team?

9. Do you have a trad rack and ropes that can be used for the exchange?

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by jimbo » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:04 pm

Bumping the post to remind you that you have 2 weeks left to apply for the AAC/MCSA trad exchange!

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Thu Feb 09, 2017 9:01 am

The submissions for the Dream South African Climbing Team to accompany the American Team is now closed.

We received some 40 applications which is overwhelming to say the least.

There are 18 climbers on the short list representing a mix of youth, talent and experience. Unlike the last exchange there are several climbers under age 30 - one as young as 13 - who have applied that meet the criteria. The team names will be announced shortly once the selection committee have made the difficult choices.

The 12-15 climbers who are selected will have their work cut-out to climb, host, lift and carry heavy loads up to crags. So start training guys and gals.

The grape vine tells me that there are many more climbers that want to be involved but feel they could not apply due to uncertainty regarding funding, time off work and other commitments. PLEASE everybody complete the alternative application put out by Johan. The more interest that is shown, the more compelling it will be for the various equipment suppliers and the MCSA sections to support this endeavour financially or in other ways in the years to come. Please note that the itinerary as presented on the Google form is just a frame work and may change closer to the time depending on weather, fynbos fires, water availability and so on.


If you cannot afford to travel to Cape Town from JNB or vice versa to participate in any of the events then please approach your local MCSA section, your family or friends, your boss, your employer or whoever and see if they can assist you or get together a travel group. Beg borrow but don’t steal. If you do not ask you do not receive! I do know that one of the applicants Paul De V is driving up from Cape Town around the 20th and he wants company. I do not wish to post his details here so email me on Charles@CityROCK.co.za or post your request on Climb.co.za.

Finally, to cater for the sport climbing rock jocks there will be the option for them to impress our American Guests at Fernkloof on the 26 March just after the Tradathon that is taking place at Mhlabatini Kloof on the 25th. Both these venues are within walking distance of Bergheim where we will be staying. It is at Fernkloof that iconic climbs like Stormwatch and Faberge are situated. So sport climbers please register and come and join the Tradathon on the 25th. Its free and we will attempt to pair you up either with local traddies or our American Guests. And then do the same on the Sunday on the sport climbs where the traddies can possibly be challenged to trad climb the sport routes.

We the organizers of the event Jimbo, Illona, Johan and myself are super amped and psyched…… ….

Please all forward this communication to anyone who may be interested.


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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by Justin » Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:45 am

Hey guys

What do you think of this as the notice to send out? If everyone is happy with it, Illona could you email it to all those who responded and post it on the Climb.za and facebook page

Dear AAC-MCSA exchange applicant

Due to the large number of applicants that we received and because many people could not take part for the entire two weeks of the exchange, we have decided to change the format of the SA leg to be more flexible and inclusive. Instead of restricting the exchange to 10 SA climbers who would climb with and host the Americans for the entire two weeks, all local climbers can join for the days that suit them. This way, we can accomodate more climbers for shorter periods of the exchange. Hopefully the numbers will balance out so that we get a consistent number of locals on each day.

We need volunteers to help host, transport and guide the visitors and will try to team up an American climber with a suitably matched SA climber each day.

We have received considerable funding from the MCSA for this event. Some equipment suppliers have also pledged sponsorship but our final available budget has yet to be confirmed. Those individuals that participate and host American climbers will be assisted financially with food and transport costs. Whatever funds are then left over will be used to facilitate the enjoyment of all concerned at the various events planned.

The SA leg will serve as a selection for the US leg. The selection will be based on your contribution towards the SA leg (hosting, driving, cooking, climbing, joke telling), trad talent/ potential and being an MCSA member. Unfortunately the AAC has not released dates for the US leg yet but we will try to get these confirmed ASAP.

Thank you if you took the time to fill in the application. We still need to know in advance who is coming on each day and roughly your trad competency and current ability to on-sight or follow trad routes and what grade so that we can plan accordingly.

We will keep in touch about getting this information.


Jamie, Illona, Snort and Johann
Climb ZA - Administrator

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Wed Mar 08, 2017 8:05 am

If you want to join our American visitors climbing and possibly be paired up with them, please indicate, on the on-line form linked below, which days you will be climbing with the teams. If you're unsure of a particular day, indicate what is most likely at this stage. And then please keep it up to date as the meet progresses. You can come back any time and edit your choices so that they are always up to date. This will greatly assist us in organising climbing for everybody during the event.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i09aI ... AZlBSUt04I

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Wed Mar 08, 2017 8:14 am

The Game Plan at this stage.

Climbing on TM on Tuesday and Wednesday and Possibly Thursday next week.

Social at Forries Tuesday Night

Slide show at MCSA clubhouse Wednesday night.

Socials at Du Toit's Lodge on Thursday night and then also at the lodge or hut on Friday and Saturday nights.

We have reserved the Du Toit's Kloof hut from Thursday night to Saturday night inclusive.

Climbing will radiate from there with a plan to climb at Yellowwood on Friday.

Saturday and Sunday climbing can occur at a variety of venues including TM, Paarl rocks, Montague Karbonaatjies Kraal (Karoo 1) and around Du Toit's.

All welcome but please fill in the document.

Blouberg from 20 to 24 March.

BD Tradathon 25th March Mhlabatini. followed by social event at Bergheim. Please register with Deidre!!!!!!

Fernkloof 26th

Social at MCSA/Cityrock JNB on the 27th.....

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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:01 am

Hey You'all please comment here or on the FB event page if and when you will be joining the climbing with the Americans....


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Re: AAC/MCSA exchange 14 to 28 March 2017

Post by SNORT » Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:16 pm

Tomorrow sees the start of the event. Tea and lunch shall be served at the Ledge around midday. We shall climb a route or two and then convene at Forries around 7 ish where a large table has been reserved. Ask for Charles' table

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