For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

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RyanKarate
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For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Fri Feb 10, 2017 4:02 pm

A few weeks ago I saw the main photo on home page was about a new bolted climb called "for your eyes only" - and the person said the route info would be posted on the wiki page soon but I cant find anything.

Wanting to climb this awesome looking route in a few weeks time and would really appreciate some more route info please please please...
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Chris F
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby Chris F » Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:50 am

What more info do you need?

RyanKarate
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:49 pm

Really for anything out of the ordinary that might cause issues like a "reach a 1 bolt belay on a ledge" - pretty good to know on another route in the same area. I'd then bring a bit of trad gear with from that info

But will still try give it a go... doesn't hurt to ask though

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Liz
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby Liz » Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:39 pm

Awesome! Also headed there soon. Can't wait to give it a try :o

oubaas
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby oubaas » Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:03 pm

@Ryankarate. If you're looking for climbing by numbers then join a climbing gym dude.

Chris F
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby Chris F » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:44 pm

We did Peaceful Easy Feeling (which I think is just to the left?) in the fading light and had to abseil off in the dark without a headtorch. Bit scary at the time, but in hindsight a memorable experience watching the light fade over the plains knowing what we had to do next.

RyanKarate
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:33 pm

You mean "take it easy" route?

Hows the rock quality on this face?
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Chris F
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby Chris F » Mon Feb 20, 2017 6:34 pm

Yeah, that's the one. Knew it was an Eagle's song. In my defence I did in was in about 1995, so my memory isn't so hot.

It was just put up at the time, but I don't remember having any concerns about rock quality, I seem to think it's fairly good in that sector.

We abbed from the second belay over the edge of the overhang on the right, convinced there would be an abseil stance there, but at the time there wasn't, so we carried on and 50m ropes got us to just above ground level on stretch.

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AgentSmith
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby AgentSmith » Wed Feb 22, 2017 3:53 pm

Thanks Ryan

Saw this post and it made we want to go back, looks like an amazing climb! Do you need at least 20 draws or are there 20 bolts in total? Are there anchors at each pitch?

Thanks

S

RyanKarate
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:09 pm

Think you'll need 20 quick draws to complete the longer pitches.

I'm sure there would be 2 bolts at the end of each pitch. Hopefully chains as well.

Going in 3 weeks. Will let you know, if someone else doesn't first.

dieterrohrs
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby dieterrohrs » Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:22 pm

Whats the decent info on this route. Must you walk off, or can you abseil down. How long is the abseils? Thank

RyanKarate
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Thu Mar 09, 2017 8:45 am

Seeing from the pic the route moves quick far diagonally right, so to abseil somewhere off one the upper pitches would not be possible without a seriously long rope.

There is a decent gully to the right - just out of the shot. As it says 15mins hike back down.

Going for it next weekend - will post some info I think others should need to know after.

RyanKarate
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby RyanKarate » Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:03 am

Route report for those interested

Fantastic route - challenging for an 18 but so worth it. Very well bolted. I did throw a lanyard over a chicken head a few times to decrease the distance between 2 bolts here and there. But that was more me being too nervous(first multi pitch climb in a while). Found my balls later on in the route.

2 of the stances were quite cramped with 2 people, would have been seriously uncomfortable with 3.

There were nice shiny new chains on top of first pitch. No chains on any of the other stances. 2 bolts at each stance.

Don't try abseil off the top or upper pitches. Walk down and around. 2 guys rescued the day before from trying that from what I think might have been "for your eyes only".

Rock is brittle, flaky and hollow in places - hit with your hand to hear if solid before committing to a suspect hold.

You will need at least 20 quick draws for one of the longer pitches. A few extendable quick draws were handy to reduce drag here and there.

Viking
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Re: For Your Eyes Only - 18 - Mt Everest - Harrismith

Postby Viking » Wed Mar 22, 2017 10:57 am

The guys who were rescued tried to abb off a set of chains at or near the end of this route as shown in the photo at the beginning of the thread. Whether it is the end of this route or the top of another route / project, I couldn't say, but I do know there are no chains below it! The guys who were rescued unfortunately didn't have the great photo topo that mentions you should walk off. They also tried to abb off one of the routes in the black and white topo, but without luck.
These guys did not have any prussiks with them, which would have got them out in 15 minutes.

On the walk-off there is a fence that looks like you shouldn't cross it but there is a hole in the fence that leads you to the narrow grass gully that widens as you descend between the actual Eagle's Head rock and this one.


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