Mosterthoek Twins

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fransslabber
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Mosterthoek Twins

Post by fransslabber » Thu May 18, 2017 9:49 pm

Compadres ... Does anyone have route info (gps, marked route on photo, entrails divination .... etc ) of the various routes on the Mosterthoek Twins in the Waaihoek Mountains. I am talking about climb and/or scramble routes. Eg eastern approach from Hoare Hut, Green Gullies winter alpine style ascent, descent along grassy ridge .... - all stuff I gleaned from summit.org site.
I know there are cairns to follow (apparently) but would be nice to hear from anyone that has been up that way recently.
Merci en buy-a-donkey.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri May 19, 2017 8:45 am

GPS tracks are relatively useless there since the mountain is so steep it blocks much of the signal. We had an RD the last time we tried to do Green Gullies, but there was so much snow we couldn't find the traverse ledge. I'm not sure that anyone has ever actually done an identical route there. I'll see if I can find the RD for GG again, but it was pretty vague and fairly useless.
Happy climbing
Nic

fransslabber
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by fransslabber » Fri May 19, 2017 9:49 am

thanks Nic, much appreciated.

BAbycoat
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by BAbycoat » Fri May 19, 2017 12:50 pm

I'm not sure that anyone has ever actually done an identical route there
:thumright totally agreed :thumleft:

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri May 19, 2017 1:14 pm

Here is the RD I emailed to a friend:

We parked at the farmer's house (get contact details from UCT MSC), drive up past the fancy gates and the barn/shed, the road bends right, take the first left to his house, there is a sign saying "Vredehoek". We parked by the big pine trees next to the old equipment. From there walk up the ridge (take the second road to the left), passing the houses. Continue up the hill to the end of the road (you can drive to here in a 4x4, just get permission - it'll save you about an hour on the approach). Carry on up the ridge towards the big, obvious pinnacles, when you reach the rock outcrop, drop down into the kloof on the right, cross the river and carry on along the top of the next very narrow ridge, do not go up the large kloof heading left. You will reach two waterfalls, one above the other. The lower one can be avoided by some easy scrambling on the left side. Once above the first waterfall, there is a large easy gully heading up left. Go up this gully, until you reach a large ledge on the right on which you can walk right (little exposed in places) to get above the second waterfall. Once in the gully above the second waterfall, continue up until the gully splits into a (mostly) straight up branch and an easier angled left gully. The left gully is Green Gullies.

If the ledge looks dodgy, then it is possible to carry on up the large gully to a point where it joins a large gully running almost straight down from the summit. Go up this gully until you reach a rock wall (you may have to traverse around a couple of short waterfalls) where the gully splits into a left branch and a right branch. Take the right branch to the skyline and then drop (down climb/abseil) into Green Gullies.

The route itself is quite easy, almost all on balance climbing with short sections of vertical ice. Take some snow stakes, we rarely found enough open cracks for gear and basically ended up soloing the entire thing. We didn't find thick enough ice for screws and mostly used ice axe belays.

The descent: from the top, walk towards Ceres and take the first gully heading down. Scramble down the gully until you can contour around to the back of the ridge linking Mostertshoek Twins to Waaihoek. Walk to the 3rd (I think) neck along and then keeping left descend the south side of the ridge until you are below all the rock bands. From here walk down gradually, tending right to eventually regain the ridge with the road.

It is worth making sure before you leave the end of the road on the approach which neck you need to reach for the descent and how you are going to get back to the end of the road. That way you should be ok, even in the dark. It took Mo and I about 22 hours bed to bed and probably 18 hours car to car (including getting horribly lost). Andy and Roy managed to do it in 10 hours car to car.
Happy climbing
Nic

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri May 19, 2017 1:18 pm

Mo and I had quite an epic in what were very unusually heavy snow conditions, with snow already at the end of the road/jeep track. We topped out at sunset and really struggled to find the correct descent off the Zybasberg ridge. Once we finally got down we couldn't find the correct ridge with the jeep track and ended up going too far west, and descended into hakea hell on a 60 degree slope. Eventually we found an road and a kind (very drunk) farmer who gave us a lift back to the car at 0100.
Happy climbing
Nic

fransslabber
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by fransslabber » Fri May 19, 2017 1:42 pm

Thanks Nic, sounds like level 2 fun :shock:

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri May 19, 2017 2:54 pm

Proper type-2 for sure!

The trick is to get down with enough daylight to be able to find the road again.
Happy climbing
Nic

Chris F
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Re: Mosterthoek Twins

Post by Chris F » Fri May 19, 2017 4:57 pm

Sounds like a Scottish style epic. Although I've never missed last orders at the pub!

Yet!

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