Drifter,
like the others I am thinking that either (1) you are more opinionated than informed or (2) you are taking the piss out of us. In either case I will make this last ditch effort to keep the conversation on a cordial level. I think your mountaineering education is lacking in the whole and in a feeble attempt to advance your mountaineering career here is some suggested reading to help your to the next level:
In the case of (1):
Mountaineering accidents at altitude has always caught the public’s attention. The first big one was Edward Whymper’s successful 1865 attempt on the Matterhorn where on descent, four members of the party slipped and were killed (and never found)- only the breaking of the rope saved Whymper and the two remaining guides from the same fate (his book “Scrambles among the Alps” would be a good starting place for your reading). Since then many thousands of accidents have happened and your reading should include the crowd pleasers such as “Into Thin Air” by Jon Krakauer, “Touching the Void” by Joe Simpson (turned into a video if the couch potato education appeals more) or “Left For Dead” by Beck Weathers. This should get your expectations on the drama side on the right place but please read these with the proverbial pinch of salt. After this you might be ready for the more honest and sober publications starting with something like the Mammoth Book of Mountain Disasters by Hamish Maclnnes before moving on to “The Climb” by Anatoli Boukreev, Alpine Accidents in North American Mountaineering (or their on-line database at
http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/index.asp) and the like. After which a return to the questions and statements you have made will reward you with some very good insights into one of the most challenging ethical debates in modern climbing.
For the sake of my (and potentially other’s) time, please leave this subject (and all related ones) until you have done the reading.
In the case of (2):
I suggest the parody novel “The Ascent of Rum Doodle” by W. E. Bowman. Few S-Africans have had the pleasure of this read by an author with far superior skills in the area of pulling someone else’s pisser. Even though a parody, it has become in some circles one of the most famous and celebrated books of mountaineering literature.
Good-bye until then
P.S. the books I have mentions is well worth reading and no joking matter so do not take this kind advice lightly