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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:30 am 
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Doing leading in traditional climbing is more dangerous than leading a sport climb because it is more likely for protection in trad ie; nuts, hexes cams in to come out than a properly expoxied bolt in sports climbing to come out.

There was a good article in the last SA Mountain Mag how people blindly trust bolts in sport climbing but how bolts epoxied into sandstone have known to come out. In sport climbing I think like trad climbing the equipment should only be there for back up ie; in case you fall. Obviousley when you abseil in sport climbing or are lowered down while on top rope you have to trust the bolts otherwise you shouldn't climb that climb as mentioned before. The words highly unlikely and impossible mean two different things.


Last edited by Drifter on Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:53 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Grant Marinus
gulp ... Drifter you been buying books lately ...

There is a book entitled \"Traditional Climbing - Surviving the early years ..\"

I tend to agree, in the early days to hop up an \"easy\" trad line without knowing how to properly place gear and build anchors is still fraught with risk ...

Sport climbing is a specialist pursuit (like running the 100m) ... trad climbing is like the decathlon in athletics ... you got to know, understand and be competent at a range of climbing skills and disciplines.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 12:27 pm 
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GBM do you mean \"Traditional Lead Climbing-Surviving the Learning years by Heidi Pesterfield?\"

It is worth also looking at public libaries for climbing books.


Last edited by Drifter on Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:10 pm 
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Real Name: Grant Marinus
yup, spot on ... that the one ...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:21 pm 
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Thanks for the information.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:36 pm 
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http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1204


http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1170


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:17 pm 
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Thanks for info. Everyone should download the Bolt Guide on the link given. Think we all trust bolts to quicly. Just clipping and going could be costly if we dont inspect the bolt a little. Especially on less climbed routes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:50 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Sure but what you gonna do after inspecting the bolt?
Whip out your trusty Stallone bolt gun and whack in a new one?
Try climbing at Kalk Bay Crags some time. Every bolt is totally rusted and you just have to hope and pray and try not wipe.
At least with trad you have an idea of how solid your gear is, which can be really bomber sometimes. A well placed nut or cam is as solid as a bolt, especially a rusted one.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 8:48 am
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Location: PTA
you guys crack me up...

Climbing Trad or Sport is as dangerous as you make it, simple as that.

If you spot rusted bolts and still climb that sport climb then you are an idiot and on the flip side tradding is only as safe as the person who is leading the climb makes it...


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