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 Post subject: Banff
PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:21 pm
Posts: 117
Banff time again. 7-13th Sept, was sent a dvd from the organisers to preview the films on my radio stuff. 3 climbing inserts as far as I recall, deep water solo'ng, a bouldering piece, and a film on 1st ascent of the Cobra Crack.
Not going to share my views as i dont want to pre-empt or spoil anyones visit to the festival, other than to say that the Cobra-crack film was quite an interesting reflection on the new trad-breed that are starting to trad the hard freeclimbing routes. Worth a look see.
As a warm to the Cobra, Didier stripped the route considered to be the hardest crack climb of it's bolts, and free'd it on trad. Respect. :shock:

Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:14 am 
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Location: da Big Red baboon in magalies
The Cobra crack story and the other route that Dider chopped the bolts and then free'd is also on the DVD First Ascent. Its an awesome DVD to put it lightly!!! Something every real climber (now I'm talking about Trad here :lol: ) should see! Watch the DVD to see what I mean! Very inspiring stuff!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:26 am 
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Real Name: Russell Warren
Fanta where can one aquire the abovementioned DVD? Is it only available over the net?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:31 am 
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Thats the exact DVD that is shown at the Banff, so maybe an idea to catch it at the festival, so you get to see it on the big screen. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:50 am 
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Just to go back to what I was saying in my first post here about the group who are on a mission to trad the hard sport routes, just found this on gripped.com. Interesting. Sonnie Trotter is featured on Cobra crack as well. Should make the trad-fans very chuffed! :lol:


Canadian climbing star Sonnie Trotter has just completed a difficult new line in Lake Louise, AB. Located at the Back of the Lake, The Path 5.14 R is 45m long , overhangs about 30 feet and involves four difficult 5.13 sections ending with a V10 crux and approximately 30 feet of runout climbing to the anchors. The route was originally equipped about 20 years ago but had not been climbed. After inspecting the line on rappel, Trotter discovered sufficient natural protection and decided to chop the existing bolts. The difficult crux sequence consists of a long sideways lunge to an edge the size of a broken pencil resulting in a strenuous iron cross between small holds.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:56 am 
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Location: da Big Red baboon in magalies
I'm watching at Sandton on Monday night!
I also watched the trailer on the ster kinekor website. Where a hole column of ice gets chopped off by the climber leading it :!: :shock: :shock: :!:

Curious to see how that turned out :!:


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 Post subject: didier on greenspit
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:20 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
right on fanta - first ascent is an awesome dvd. doesn't only focus on some insance climbing, but also on the climbers and what drives them; their disappointments and successes. really really kewl.

check out this clip - it is from first ascent and shows didier on \"green spit\", europe's hardest crack line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3jhWIHhVzE

and by the way, the banff film shows only an excerpt from first ascent. go get the dvd from mountainmailorder. now!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 11:07 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
You can buy First Ascent from CityRock - they have quite a few DVD's for sale or hire. PERSONALLY I found the trad vs sport aspect of FA to be bit tiring - too much of my dick is bigger than yours. But certain aspects of the movie were pretty good and it is worth watching (once). Others may disagree with me - and that's cool.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:19 pm 
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Hi All

Organisers told us last night that the entiire run of banff at Cavendish is sold out, only Tygervalley left, so if you want to go, I suggest you grab tickets pronto.
:lol:
Jeff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 8:01 pm 
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the cobra crack was one of the nicest films i ever saw. didier stayed with us and he is the nicest most humble guy. really put climbing in a different perspective


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:48 pm 
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I plan to send Cobra crack next year.

Wish me luck everyone

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:16 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Saw Banff last night but certainly not particularly inspiring except for the peice on Didier failing (sic) on Cobra Crack. Most of the stuff is a bit inane and contrived even though some of the visuals are very good. Great for James Bond movies.

The Didier piece aside one gets no insight into the people, the places and the activity. Its mostly a series of stunts, thrills and spills. The Mountain Biking is particularly contrived and even boring after a while. I saw at least 3 people dozing off.

The Fresh Air Crew must make more movies...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 12:00 pm 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Agreed, the Didier piece was no.1 for me \"I ate sushi\" :lol: - followed by the lego mountaineer!!
I enjoyed the Trials rider doing his bit, the girls bouldering bored the hell out of me 'V4 and a cleavage shot'.

The MTB'ing was ok, but got boring after a while. The snowboarding was good for a laugh (especially the head plant from 100 meters up). The No/Yes board... bored :?
The BASE stuff was fun.

Have to say overall, I enjoyed the show and will go again next year.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Also loved the lego...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:20 pm 
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I quite liked the deep water soloing bit, got a hollow feeling in my stomach each time they came of there - quite a drop !!

Agreed on Didier.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:32 pm 
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was i the only one who thought the title of \"Crack Master\" to be a little dubious ... heck! :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:54 pm 
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Posts: 117
Enjoyed Cobra crack mainly due to the humour, but definately agree that the festival was a bit thin on quality stuff this season. The bouldering was a yawn, especially the sequence of the climber clawing, scratching herself over that terrible looking lip for ages. It really did nothing for bouldering at all.

Deep water solo'ing was ok as well, and even the BASE jumping got a bit long winded. Nothing really 'lit' me up, but then if you read my opening post, I said I didnt want to share my feelings, and that was why. Did'nt want to put anyone off from going. :)

Fresh Air Crew definately need to get stuff out there again.


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