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 Post subject: Hector on Crystal Fire!
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 836
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
The pic of Hector on Crystal Fire is a breath of fresh air. Crystal Fire is one of the test piece trad climbs of its era and I am sure is rarely on-sighted or even climbed. (Or am I wrong?). What style has this route been done in? What else is happening in the Magalies? And I think it is closer to 24 grade too. Wander if I can still drag my 48 year old bones up it. Keep it up Hector and keep us informed....More pics please.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:40 pm
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Yeah , agreed ! The route looks super uber cool . Wasn't sure whether this is a trad (climbing with helmet) or a sport route (cannot see the finer details of gear on the photo) . Nonetheless , what a great photo . :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Crystal Fire is a bold trad route dude!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
The photos do deserve a closer look :) (BTW any image on the home page can also be viewed in the gallery - the display size on the home page is limited with landscape pics)

Hector Pringle on Crystal Fire (23), Mhlabatini Kloof in the Magaliesberg
Route opened by Andrew De Klerk and Kevin Smith

Photos by Graham Terrell

Image

Image

Image

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Climb ZA - Administrator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 11:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:50 am
Posts: 104
Location: Joburg
Yeah its pretty much closer to 24 than 23. Hector hasn't managed to climb it cleanly yet. Gear is average, small wires and cams, small cams probably takes the edge of it a little bit. First ascencionist placed a piton on lead. (very strenous). I've only seconded it. Hector and me tried \"JUST HOT\" this past weekend.
http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/l ... l#LT1WK1JH
Got our asses whipped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 351
Crystal Fire is an awesome route. Andrew Pedley managed a very controlled on-site a few years back (he made it look 17!). At that stage I couldn’t even get up the thing. I think I’m close to a redpoint by now.

Magalies is chock full of classic routes. Climbs like the Rasp (Mhlab’s, 22), Egowhip (Mhlab’s, 23), Arch of Time (Kranskloof, 24), Dogfather and Dogmother (both in Kranskloof, 22), Hang Dog (Cedarberg, 21), Dogmatic (Boulder, 22), Two Dogs and Freedom (U Tonquani, 22), Genesis (U Tonquani, 23) and Mad Pilot (Grootkloof, 22) have all gone down in recent years. Usually the style is ground up, but we’re not very strong up here and we often take a few rests to work out the moves, then come back for the redpoint (no pre-placed gear!).
On Crystal Fire I admit to spending an afternoon alone on top rope to build up psych and figure out the gear. Am using the same technique on a route in Fern as well.
There’s a bunch of routes that have been tried and have bitten back. Our issue list includes: Dogstyle (Boulder, 23), Alchemy (U Tonquani, 22 – this thing is brick hard!), Absolute Beginners (Grootkloof, 24), Suicide (Cedarberg, 24) and as Ian mentioned, Just Hot in L Tonquani (it has a fair long runout at the top!) So there’s year’s-worth of stuff still to do.

But if anyone asks the climbing in the kloofs is crap. That way the sport climbers can keep clipping bolts at Choss and Bronkies and leave the kloofs as they are – nice and quiet!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Other routes bring back memories. I onsighted Arch of Time all those years ago. Desperate! How hard is it now? A guy called Mike Brunke tore up his shoulder on it. Genesis has probably only had its 1st ascent in 25 years!

A few months ago Clinton Martinengo and I did a blitz through Cedarberg and he onsighted the top pitch of Doggle which was graded 24 in the old days. Its is much harder than that. I coudn't top rope it. Also did Dogstyle which is a fair grade.

Anybody done Dogstar at Blouberg? Another route that is probably 2 grades harder than 24. Did it with Greg Child a few years ago and he dogged it and the guy was onsighting 26s and even climbed Snapdragon and onsighted Auto for the People (27) on that trip.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 7:03 am
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Location: da Big Red baboon in magalies
If anyone goes to climb Genesis please leave the hex where it is... I might need to rap off it again :? Its a fine route but looses points for its first pitch. I tried to lead it straight up the rather blank slab, you get to a rather committing move of about 20; way above a piece of gear... if you bugger it up it comes close to decking...

SNORT do you know of anyone who has maybe tried that route to get to the 2nd pitch? There might be a place for a sketchy peg in a VERY THIN seem. Would anyone have any objections to placing a peg if the route does go.

Dbez helmets should be used at all crags... not just trad. It saved Marian’s life... ask her if she bought a new one???

Hector when you going back to finish Crystal Fire... we'll organise a better camera than a point and shoot... It will give the route more justice!
Better yet I'll make a video clip... I got some cool ideas for rigging for next time!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:11 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
I got no objection to a peg on Genesis.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 11:36 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 7:03 am
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Location: da Big Red baboon in magalies
cool, however do you know of anyone who has tried the slab directly below the roof crack? I dont want to put a peg there and leave it if someone has already opened that route


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 351
Snort, I’ve tried DogStar and can’t see how to do it. I’m 6’7 but there’s no ways I can reach from the last good jam to the jug around the corner. I guess that means you’re supposed to use something other than the good jam but I’m nowhere near strong enough.
I reckon Arch of Time is 24. I came close to an onsight, making it through the lower crux only to cock it up near the top. Got it second go.
Grading in the Kloofs can be fairly inconsistent but it does keep things interesting. Like Egowhip at 23 is fairly easy, but Alchemy at 22 is just stupid. I think there were many ego’s at play when this stuff was opened so sandbag’s were frequent. But its not really worth changing the grades. Most of the stuff is well protected and its good to get spanked every now and then.
Btw Snort, what is agonising hands like? How’s the gear on the 2nd pitch?
Fanta, place that peg if it goes in! Its an awesome line and will turn Genesis into a 5* route.


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