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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:40 am 
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Real Name: OneDog
I have not really looked at it that way, but I doubt that there's anything much over 20m. There is room for more routes, so perhaps a couple more on the longer sections too.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:31 am 
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I sympathise with your belayer, I'm pretty bad at mornings as well, will probably go and check it out either sat or sun afternoon and will most likely just boulder, hopefully see you guys there


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:04 am 
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So, have any of you guys been there & what's the verdict - worth it or not?

I haven't been out there again, sick as a dog the one weekend and away the other, damn. Will be there this weekend 4 sure.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:27 am 
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Location: Gauteng, Pretoria
Went to check out the climbing at Mutango last week and have the following comments:
Most of the routes I tried were very good with the rock being pleasently solid. The rock is very different to Bronkies being more like the type found in the Waterberg.
Would only recommend the climbing for mornings as the crag is west facing and bakes in the sun after noon.
The smell of baboon excrement is quite overwhelming and takes a little getting used to.
It will be great when all the routes are fixed up.
I will add my grade suggestions and comments to the Wiki.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:13 am 
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Thanks Gareth. I see you increased the toll fee a bit? Inflation sucks :lol:

On the missing chains - are there bolts and we just need to get the chains or drill + bolts too?

Where's a good place to buy hangers? I see Mountain Mail Order is out, and Drifters has a mix of Lucky & Madrock - which is preferred and is it a train smash if I get a mix (they don't have enough of either brand) in order to complete the routes with missing hangers?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:20 am 
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Real Name: Willem Boshoff
we also tried the crag this past weekend and i can echo gareth's comments.

we climbed in the afternoon and had to stick to a few routes that were in the shade of a large tree growing in the cliff. unfortunately this is the baboons' favourate spot and generations of baboon crap covers the rocks and soil below. the stench was almost unbearable.

other climbs, especially the ones on the left as you face the crag, looks really kewl and the smell seems to be less of a problem.

there is also a lot of unbolted lines, with a few killer ones in the offering (seems like most lines up to grade 22/23 has been bolted, but higher grades not)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:27 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
and:

the top chains for \"The more you break the harder it gets\" is missing - no bolts either; only holes drilled.

Agree with the grades but both \"Spider's Way\" and \"Waterfall\" are difficult for their given grades


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:42 am 
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Location: Gauteng, Pretoria
Sorry about the R5,40 toll fee, mistook it for a road name R540, all fixed now.
The chains on \"The more you break...\" have been completely pulled out. They were U bolt anchors so will have to be replaced.
I also noticed that some of the nuts on the bolts of the \"missing hanger\" routes have seized (common problem with Stainless bolts) and will have to be re-bolted.
Also, the routes that have hangers and \"quick-links\" for chains need to have 2 \"quick-links\" and not just 1 in place to allow the rope to be threaded easier.

It doesn't matter which hangers you use, they are all pretty much the same. You can contact the club to see where they buy their stuff. I'll send you the contact numbers for the bolting convenor.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:57 am 
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Just pulling your leg on the toll fee.

Thanks for the other info. I'm familiar with the SS bolts & nuts seizing problem - one should apply a spot of dry lubricant (Spanjard makes some if I recall, bronzy pasty stuff) available at most hardware shops I would imagine - completely eliminates the problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:57 am 
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I went out there yesterday and had a walk around with my wife. It was freeeeeeeeeeaking hot!! It's going to be no fun at all climbing in the avie. We took the path from the main lodge around to the top of the crags. It's a nice view and a pretty place.

Then we walked back and went around from the front. The stuff is all pretty small, so unless there are some awesome lines, all it really has going for it is proximity to Pta. Bronkies is only R10 and a full car makes petrol cheaper, and Bronkies is a better bet for me.

That said, I'd still like to head out one morning and try a few routes. Those of you who've climbed... is there anything 22 and up? That would make it more worthwhile.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 9:06 am 
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Location: Gauteng, Pretoria
Proze, most of the routes seem to be pretty hard. I tried the easier looking lines. Try some of the following which I think will be in the 22+ range:
Up swiftly, Think Twice, Cape Dream, Empire Rock, The Crain, all the lines between Stage Dive and XXX.
If you send any of them, please update the wiki with your suggested grades.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:39 am 
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Thanks for the info, Gareth. It was too frikkin' hot to concentrate on anything apart from getting back to the airconditioned car on tuesday avie, so I'll check them out when we head back. Maybe Sunday morning. Anyone else going this weekend?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:01 pm 
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proze wrote:
Anyone else going this weekend?


I'd like to go, not sure of my friends yet, but also aiming for Sunday morning. If I'm there, I'll be the one with the grumpy belay bunny (Unless I feed her some Wimpy coffee beforehand / leave her at home ) :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:51 pm 
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Hi
I also want to check out the new crag, but are a bit short on partners. Can I join any of you guys going there on Sunday?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:01 pm 
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JJ: I sent you a PM with my cell number if you are interested

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:38 pm 
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fantastic!
fantastic!
fantastic!
and once again ... fantastic!

thanks Emile for all the effort put in .... once i get up there i'll leave a number of Long Islands on order at the pub for you.

not sure when i'll get out there to check it out; but i'm itching!

please keep us posted in terms of developments / news.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:36 pm 
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no prob.

I went for my first climb there this weekend, was fun. Hot & humid, but fun. My girlfriend sampled the breakfast while we were climbing, apparently quite good. First time she had such a smile after we went climbing.....

I got the details from Gareth (thanks Gareth) and I'm busy arranging to replace the missing hangers, anchors etc. so just hang on a bit for those routes affected (indicated on wiki - far right couple of climbs + \"the more you break...\")

Just a word or two of caution: there's some loose rock on \"Cape Dream\", and I almost shat myself after almost walking over a large snake. I guess it goes without saying that it's still a pretty wild area and it's bound to happen. It made a big effort to get away from me, but still, be careful! Not sure what 'brand' it was, I was too busy going the other way. 8)

cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:33 pm 
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hallo,my name is jacques cronje.if you ever climbed in pta you will know me.i have been climbing at bobbejaans berg,thats the name of this new mystery crag near pta.I bolted the angle iron route,24 and actually named fuckin A!.i did this nearly ten years ago.all the other routes,that were bolted during last two years for corporate team shit, were done on trad and solo by me and some friends.i even have video and route guides and witnesses to all these events and routes.there are still a few lines that werent done but in the 10 years i climbed there i really worked the place over.hahaha! the orriginal owners of the place let us climb for free,but these asswipes that own the place now just want to make money.the bolter did not even attempt to find the history of the climbing done there and even renamed my route for me.if you need more info on the place,pleace find me at spiders in pta where i crank hard weekly.keep climbing.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:26 am 
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jaxx wrote:
hallo,my name is jacques cronje.if you ever climbed in pta you will know me.i have been climbing at bobbejaans berg,thats the name of this new mystery crag near pta.I bolted the angle iron route,24 and actually named bad word A!.i did this nearly ten years ago.all the other routes,that were bolted during last two years for corporate team shit, were done on trad and solo by me and some friends.i even have video and route guides and witnesses to all these events and routes.there are still a few lines that werent done but in the 10 years i climbed there i really worked the place over.hahaha! the orriginal owners of the place let us climb for free,but these asswipes that own the place now just want to make money.the bolter did not even attempt to find the history of the climbing done there and even renamed my route for me.if you need more info on the place,pleace find me at spiders in pta where i crank hard weekly.keep climbing.


Jacques: I resent your name calling of the owners - they are committed to using the money to the climber's benefit - someone who wants to bolt a new line now does not need to pay for the bolts themselves. The missing hangers will be paid for from this kitty. A better way don't you think? Ask them yourself if you don't believe me.

On the renaming of the route - I recorded the names of the routes as they are painted there. Take it up with the person who painted it there.

On finding you: It seems the current owners bought the place after you finished and do not know your name - having your name I've just confirmed this again. I'm guessing someone from the MCSA contacted you after I spoke to them? So now you've been found and given credit (see the wiki). Congrats.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:53 am 
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i laugh at you boet. ha ha ha.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:35 am 
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Location: Pretoria
jaxx wrote:
if you ever climbed in pta you will know me


Jeez man, how about getting that chip off your shoulder...

Personally, I feel that the credit should go to Emile for "finding" the crag and arranging access with the current owners. Thanks man!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:05 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
i like the name \"bobbejaans berg\"

are you guys really looking for credit here? its like saying some white guys discovered the victoria falls whilst the locals have been there all along. the baboons have been sitting on and climbing those cliffs long before any of you tsk tsk

but genuine tks to all who have bolted and arranged access and all that so that we can now go climbing. nga!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:07 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
he jaxx, would be great if you can help providing route grades. dankie swaer.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:40 am 
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mokganjetsi wrote:
i like the name "bobbejaans berg"
are you guys really looking for credit here?


I think the name is appropriate too.

I'm not looking for credit. Maybe it helps jaxx crank harder, so I've added his name on the wiki. He can increase the font size himself if he is still not happy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:21 pm 
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jacqey baby wrote:
if you need more info on the place,pleace find me at spiders in pta where i crank hard weekly.


Haha, thanks man.

emile wrote:
Maybe it helps jaxx crank harder, so I've added his name on the wiki. He can increase the font size himself if he is still not happy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:59 pm 
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With regards to paying for access.... This has to be the only realistic way to keep any crag safe from crime, in a good condition and secure access for the future. These three problems seem to be an issue at most crags and I think using access fees to maintain the crag is absolutely brilliant.

This crag might not be the best in the area but climbing is all about variety, the more crags we have to climb at the better!

Thanks to everyone that went to the effort of making this place available for all of us.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 3:53 pm 
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Ok Ok Ok! i came over a bit strong. what pissed me of is the fact that although the climbing comunity in Pretoria is very small and we all hang out in three gyms,still the guy that developed the crag did not bother to try and find out the history of the crag.i have no problem paying to climb and i dont support mass bolting.if a route deserves to be bolted,the climber that wants it should pay.
there are still many trad lines to be done at bobbejaans berg,the map name for that crag,and this should be taken into acount before you go bobbejaan and bolt every thing.
i dont have a chip on my shoulder,im just fucking strong and chalenge you to come prove me wrong.hahahaha!
i thank you for adding my name to wiki,but all i wanted to do is clear up the \"mystery\" of this crag.enjoy the place and bolt only when really necesary.dont be like the mountain club.

By the way,the route you call Bad word A, its actually called Fucking A and is an unconfirmed 24.Hava nice day nmow.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 3:54 pm 
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Ok Ok Ok! i came over a bit strong. what pissed me of is the fact that although the climbing comunity in Pretoria is very small and we all hang out in three gyms,still the guy that developed the crag did not bother to try and find out the history of the crag.i have no problem paying to climb and i dont support mass bolting.if a route deserves to be bolted,the climber that wants it should pay.
there are still many trad lines to be done at bobbejaans berg,the map name for that crag,and this should be taken into acount before you go bobbejaan and bolt every thing.
i dont have a chip on my shoulder,im just fucking strong and chalenge you to come prove me wrong.hahahaha!
i thank you for adding my name to wiki,but all i wanted to do is clear up the \"mystery\" of this crag.enjoy the place and bolt only when really necesary.dont be like the mountain club.

By the way,the route you call Bad word A, its actually called Fucking A and is an unconfirmed 24.Hava nice day nmow.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 4:33 pm 
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hey jaxx

I still don't get this
jaxx wrote:
still the guy that developed the crag did not bother to try and find out the history of the crag

bit.

Who are you talking about? Who are you pissed at? I thought you developed it? Are you implying that I should have tried (harder) to find you? I asked around and no-one knew, and I did not take any credit for the development, so go and dry out that panty, you sound like my grandma. :lol:

Neil Margetts (among other) is busy with a guide for Gauteng, it would be great if you could contact me or him with any additional info or perhaps help by updating the wiki? That way you can set the record straight.

peace 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:11 am 
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What an awesome crag - we spent a stunning Sunday on the (hot) rock knowing that a cold G&T would be waiting in the pub afterwards!! Owners are great and really keen on climbers making use of their facilities, and told us to spread the word. A couple of tips:

1) Take the correct amount of money - they do not have a lot of change early in the morning
2) If you want a meal after your climb then you can order it in the morning as you pay and they will have it ready when you come off the crag
3) There a showers that you can use after bundu bashing up and down via overgrown paths (watch out for stinging nettles)
4) Try and get there early - by 13h00 the sun creeps over the hill and turns it into a sauna

Then just a caution - our group of 4 girls reached a concensus that the climbs we did were graded a bit on the optimistic side - the 16's were the hardest we have ever done..we were planning to use them to warm up but ended up spending most of the day there just trying to send them - the bolts are far appart and the climbs were all very reachy and pumpy on the arms !!

If you are new to climbing don't even attempt to climb the easy graded (10 - 15) for now - as the missing bottom hangers make this an impossible task. We took some trad gear along and managed to place the odd nut and cam but the first bolt is HIGH up and there is not a lot of trad placings at the bottom.

All in all a fantastic day and a new favourite hang-out for us.


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