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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:01 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:01 pm
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Location: JHB
Morning :) , I was busy going over my gear on the weekend, specifically one quickdraw (wiregate) where the gate was getting stuck open (bolt side, the gate is slighly kinked, but its hard to see), I also noted that the bent gate (rope side) is also does not close completely if you close it gently, it does however snap properly shut if you click a rope into it. (my fader flys's are about 2 and a bit years old)

Besides it being fun to buy new gear, I want to know:

Is Q20 or something like that, the thing to use to lubricate and clean the draw (and will this \"oil\" just result in the draw jamming up even quicker next time)

Is this problem normal / common? While I am writing this I am thinking that it would probably be a better thing just to buy new ones, but I have developed a bond with my old draws already :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:44 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
Software should be replaced every two years and hardware about every three to five years. At least so the manufacturers would have us believe. I have biners that are nearly twenty years old and still bomb on them with gay abandon. Basically aircraft grade aliminium should never die although I would hesitate to use it much past thirty years! :wink:

Clean the gates with a solvent such as contact cleaner, you can get this in a spray can from automative or electronics stores, then lubricate them with silicone spray lubricant. The silicone is a 'dry' lubricant and does not attract dirt as Q20 will. Spray silicone sparingly and only on the pivot points/moving parts. Wipe it off thoroughly with a paper towel as it makes the biners super slippery, they will be hard to handle for the first climb or two because of this. Spray in a ventillated space and avoid getting the silicone on your skin - it aint healthy

If the biner or gate is bent causing the gate not to close easily throw the biner out, better yet cut it up and recycle it, high grade aluminium is worth a chunk! Buying high quality gear may dent your pocket now but you will have fewer replacements as the years roll on.

Your bolt side biner sounds trashed, the rope one will most likely come right with a bit of TLC.
PS Keep your gear out of the dirt!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:56 am 
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Real Name: Russell Warren
Hi Mark

I went to Thailand 2 years ago and cleaned my gear thoroughly on my return, but still my fader drawers started to \"seize\" up one after the other. On one occassion the consequences could have been dire as the rope gate did not shut and the rope found it's way out of the carabiner. Luckily for me my belayer was awake and he prevented me from doing a rather bold move from which the fall consequences where a ground fall. My experience is that once they start to stick they are only useful as bailing biners. I have retired about 4 of my draws for sticking after trying to get them clean. The above mentioned episode sealed the said draws fate.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:04 am 
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Location: Durban
Real Name: Mathieu Schneuwly
Whatever you do dont get the spray/oil/solvent on the slings/fabric/rope its probably bad. In a bad way.

I use wynn's wynnflon which contains and leaves a PTFE (teflon) residue.
My draws are 5 years old and still perfectly slick, and ive sprayed the joints very lightly only twice...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:19 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
Ja good point, definitely remove the slings before cleaning the biners! Solvents are not good. According to my father (physical chemist and plastics engineer) oil does little to nylon as it is a very stable plastic, but I cant vouch for spectra or the effects of other lubricants.

Winflon is also a good choice of lubricant, it lasts longer than silicone although is slightly more prone to attracting dust.

If you climb near the sea always wash all your gear in warm fresh water afterwards. For biners a bit of dishwashing liquid helps. You must rinse the salt off the aluminium or there will be corrosion especially in areas of wear such as inside the pivot holes. Spraying with silicone or Winflon after washing will displace the last of the water.

Shoo! More than you ever wanted to know, I thought this sport was supposed to be simple! :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:48 pm 
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Location: JHB
Hay all, Thanks for the comments, I am going to try and give them some TLC but if they are even half dodgy its going to be shiny happy draw time


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:41 am 
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Whoah!!!!!!!! :shock: Don't mess around with your gear. Contact the supplier or even go as far as contacting the manufacturer. They are always willing to help.


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