The new last bolt on Sauron was placed long after the route had first been bolted. It was noticed that the original last bolt was in a very dangerous position and if fallen on, there was the potential for a hazardous fall. This happened to many climbers before this new bolt was placed. On one weekend alone, a climber broke his ankle and another had a VERY nasty fall on this last move. The bolter who bolted this climb might not have seen that if one falls on this last move they would hit a prominent ledge.
The new bolt was placed so that it could be clipped before the hard finishing move, thus protecting the HUGE eminent fall. Obviously, the person who bolted the original route was climbing many grades above Sauron's, and the last move must have proved easy to climb. While this additional bolt might have changed the character of the route [from an ankle breaker to a safe, fun climb], the original bolter obviously found reason to remove the new bolt and keep the hanger for himself. It's a pity he didnt have to carry the broken climbers down the hill himself.
It should be noted that Sauron is a badly bolted climb from the start. There are a few bolts placed into flakes, rather than solid rock, and some of the bolts are suspect. This additional bolt was added to safeguard those climbers who are pushing it to climb an 18, and thus protect them from a harmful fall. Had the climb been properly bolted from the get go, this would not have been necessary. If climbers wanted to skip this last new bolt, they could have, however, it was decided by them to remove this hanger and thus continue with the injuries. It must also be noted that there was a maillon on the original last u-bolt because so many climbers used to bow out for fear of getting hurt on the final crux moves.
The question is this: should an 18 at a sport crag be allowed to be so badly bolted, so that people keep injuring themselves, so that certain falls will rip flakes off the hillside? Certainly, some projects in remote seldom climbed areas are sparsely bolted nightmares, however, the Chosspile is a high volume sport crag. An 18 at a sport crag should be safe and fun to climb.
Until the bolt is replaced on Sauron, I would advise all climbers who are new to the area to avoid climbing this route.
Lastly, it should be noted as well that in all of the route guides the bolter of this route has not been printed, thus, to contact the original bolter to ask for permission to place this bolt was impossible.
This is what is posted on the web:
Quote:
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock.
First Ascent: Unknown
So, the first bolt is really high up, the second [and third btw] bolts are in hollow flakes. Thus, until you clip higher up,
you have the potential to take a major groundfall. Be careful of this route.
Lastly, would the person who removed this hanger please PM me so that I can arrange to have it returned to its owner. It wasnt yours to take, and I'm sure it can be put to better use.
Thanks, and happy climbing.
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