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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:34 pm
Posts: 51
I need to buy a set of CAMS. The ones I like are the Wild Country Tech Friends. That’s what I use to climb with “Thanks EC Mountain Club”
• Should I investigate other makes (Pros/cons)?
• Where’s the best place I can get some for a good price new/second hand.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2875
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Wild Country Cams are great and I have them mostly on my rack.
Also have a look at the Black Diamond Camalots, the big difference is that you only need one finger to activate the cam - they are however more expensive.
Trango cams are really good as well, for ultra small sizes check out 'Aliens'
And if you're on a tight budget Rock Empire Cams - excellent value for money.

For second hand gear check out the garage sale section of the forum.

Regarding shops - Check out:
Mountain Mail Order
Kreature.co.za
CityROCK.co.za

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:20 am
Posts: 10
uMMM!! and DRIFTERS :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 130
@ericd,

I prefer BD Camalots over WC Friends:
+ Wider camming range
+ Double axle is stronger when used as passive pro
+ From experience, cams walk less
+ Cable loop means you can fit a double-loop sling

There was a great review of Cams in (the old) SAMM; it may still be available here:
http://www.samountainmag.com/back-issues.php?Article_ID=74

Safe climbing.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:02 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 706
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
My rack is mostly WC (+-85%). Over the years I have fixed triggers on basicaly all the WC Friends, but so far have never repaired any Camelots, Aliens or other.

So IMO if you are planning to use your rack a lot. Don't go WC.

Funny I still prefer WC Friends when I'm up there.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 726
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Hi there

BD are without a doubt the best cams around tho thay do have downsides:
1. HEAVY
2. expensive
3. Wide camming range is cool but you´ll have to buy doubles of some sizes = more cost
4. Silly, stupid, dumb sling design (can anyone explain why they have such poorly designed slings?)

Rock Empire:
1. Cheapest cams on the market
2. Less camming range than BD
3. Proper slings!

my 2c

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Nic


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:49 am
Posts: 149
I'm on BD and Metolius Cams. Only complaint is the BD weight.

zb.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1141
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
metolius, BD, wild country - all great cams; won't be making a mistake to get any of these. all with pros and cons depending on the design (single stem / u-shape; double / single axle; trigger action etc.) read-up on the manufacturers websites dude (stop being so lazy :D )

surf US gear websites - if you get cams on sale, buy enough to get economies of scale and use a cheap shipping option (USPS Global EMS) you could save significantly. i recently got 12 wild country tech friends at R420 a piece (incl VAT and shipping) - but then no after sales service.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 130
There's a common view that Camalots are heavy. This used to be so. The current generation of cams are way lighter, making them only marginally (2-3%) heavier than equivalent Friends or RockEmpires. For example:

Cam // Range // Weight
BD 0.5 // 19-33mm // 97g
TF 1.25 // 21-33mm // 98g
RE 1 // 20-29mm // 96g

(Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in BD; I'm just a fan of their products).


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:49 am
Posts: 149
In fairness I'm currently using some last-gen BDs (and they are noticeably heavier), however adding Metolius to your list.

MT 3 // 18.5 - 29mm // 68g

...but its a 10KN rating vs DB's 12KN, RE 15KN, TF (11/14??KN)....so there is that!

zb.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 4:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 130
Metolius are great cams - though I still prefer the BD movement. Are there any Metolius distributors in SA?


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