WRT to the top rope bolt/chain question thread.

I thought some might find this interesting:

I met John Alexander last year at Bosch crag and we ended up discussing the route 'Wonderland' at Paarl (originally bolted by John). I got to the part in my story where I was telling him how I was kuk'ing off on the crux and then even more so for a clip because my biner would not fit through the bolt (whilst having emotions of feeling led out, scared, etc

While still chuckling at me he pulled out one of the original hangers that from Wonderland route (cut and machined by him). He'd found it in the bushes at the bottom of the route (probably dropped by the person who retro bolted the route).
Pretty cool

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Re old home made hangers - I was on a route this weekend with two very similar devices at the top of the route. I don't wanna be a wuss but these homemade things give me the creeps. Are they any good? I always back up with trad gear and create an entire secondary anchor in addition.

Speaking of Paarl, about a month ago, was climbing on Ugly Duckling. Anyone seen where the second anchor is? Cos as far as I can see there is just the one anchor/hanger (on a nice ledge). There is another hanger much higher up above it - 4m or so but also all on its own. No proper anchors at all! Again I setup my own anchor to ab off. Unless I missed it - this is super shoddy bolting!

I reckon those hangers are probably stronger / safer than the hitech / light weight stuff that is normally used (pure overkill). That said, as soon as I see a home made hanger like that I get nervous wondering if the bolt behind it is up to the job.

Hi Scott - in your inbox - no intention to knock your bolting skills!

HAHA . Isn't it funny how some guys completely loose the plot when their fragile ego's get nicked.

Justin, I don't suppose that John told you that not only did he hand tool the hangers but that he also hand drilled all the bolt holes (on a 4 pitch route). Bloody amazing. The great thing about the original hangers is that when the calf muscles flames out (and the physche) that they became pretty decent feet placements.

Wow! Didn't know he hand drilled the bolt holes (probably on lead!?). I'm sure the hangers made good foot placements (for resting) but the bolts where so far apart it couldn't have made much of a difference!

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Climb ZA - Administrator

I bet the rebolter is thinking: 'I always wondered where that hanger landed' !

Ive still got one of those things, theyre bombers! Its the handdrilled 8mm dropins we used to secure them to the rock with I would worry about, not the hanger.