We climbed a 4 pitch route on Mooihoek Mountain on the campsite side last week. It runs up a black streak on the left side of the fence. I have no idea what it is called.One of the anchors on the third belay stance is loose and has come out of the rock. By the way what is this route called? We dubbed it "Skidmark" since we have no idea what it's called. Gerhard

I think it's called 'Slag', the only route on the Slag Crag.

It is concerning that anchors are just coming loose, and can be pulled out of the rock.
Do you mind giving a bit more detail on the type of anchor (Chemical or mechanical) and how it is placed etc.

Did you notice any other loose or potentially looser anchors?
Do you think this is something to be worried about on other routes in the area?

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Feel the Qui

It was a mechanical anchor (expansion bolt) with a chain on it. The bolt itself was loose in the hole and could be pulled out about 3 cm and then stuck. the bolt itself looked stripped. The rock looks good, but there was another hole drilled close to the anchors. I don't know if it was drilled and abandoned, or if it was a previous anchor. Luckily the belay stance is quite flat and the first anchor on the next pitch was close.

On one of the boulders, Ostrich egg, one of the top anchors was a bit loose and very rusted (on a route called Omelette). There were no other loose anchors on other climbs. What is concerning is that the anchors and chains on other routes are very rusty. We climbed "Fight the Feeling" as well, and those anchors, bolts and chains are quite rusty.

Thanks for the info.

It is difficult to tell off the couch, but it sounds like an isolated incident, and no cause for immediate panic. If the bolt was stripped it could be due to a mess up while placing, and the bolt could then not be removed or something or nothing I don’t know nothing about.

Unfortunately the reality is that all anchors have a limited life span and will eventually need to be replaced to remain safe. Many at Harrysmith are getting quite old now.

Remember to always check anchors and bolts before using them and never just assume they are safe. Especially in less trafficked areas. It is the responsibility of each climber to satisfy themselves that they are using anchors that are in good enough condition. This takes a fare amount of faith in the person who placed hem, but a bit of common sense can go a long way.

Be safe.

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Feel the Qui

Tut, tut. Amazing what a little reading can tell you.
Firstly, I strongly recommend that you all go out and get a copy of Gavin Peckham's Eagle Mountain RD. Contact me if you want.
If you had the RD, you would know that the route is Big Sky (graded 18), and was opened by Gavin Peckham himself, and Gavin Raubenheimer. Now the RD says the route is a 3-pitch route, and since mr Peckham opened the route in 2005 himself, I think he should know. I don't know how you managed to climb it in 4 pitches, but that's a story for another day, eh?
Maybe, though, because the pitches are so long (35m, 15m, 45m), you split them up?

I will notify Gavin about the loose anchor.

b.t.w. it's also not the only route on the crag. My buddy Alex Steyn opened numerous trad routes on that face (I came along for one of them), and I also opened one trad line on the dolorite on the same side with Hennie van Zyl. And there is at least one other route on the dolorite.
All of this is mentioned in the Rd as well.

Hi noki/Gavin?

How high is the Dolorite on the campsite side? Is the rock good? And what is the best way to get up there?

Thanks for any info, and for opening all those routes...

If I remember correctly it was called Big Sky and was a three pitch route, the second pitch had an easy but long run-out, and I do remember an abandoned drilled hole. Perhaps someone placed a stance making it a four pitch route.

Hi Nosmo

No, I am not Gavin. I am Jacques Raubenheimer. If you can figure out what Noki means, I will give you a wet asparagus as a prize.
Ja, all those routes. Those were the good old days in the mid-90s.
The Dolorite is good. The walk is a bit far, but not bad. considering you would be going there for tradding, the walk-in would be considered quite acceptable--No self-respecting sport climber would do that walk-in for a route. Routes there should go at about three to four shortish (<25m) pitches, although the height is not uniform.
The rock is good, but as with virgin crags, there is enough loose stuff to require extreme care. If it were climbed a lot, and cleaned, it would be good. I liked climbing there (only did that one route on the Dolorite, though--called Rhyme of the Ancient Climber), as the pro is generally more confidence inspiring than on the sandstone. And I should know, I put up five trad routes on the various Eagle Mountain sandstone cliffs, for about 16 pitches (three of the routes share the same first pitch). And some of those pitches on the sandstone are so bomber, and others are the kind where you wonder why you're placing pro in ant case, cause it probably won't hold if you fall. But the dolorite was bomber.
And there is so much of it, and the potential for some many lines there. If only someone is up to the walk in and the loose stuff...

Are you going to become the Dolorite pioneer, Nosmo?

Not a SuperMario reference perhaps?

Dolerite pioneer, maybe not. I'd love to go explore next time I get down there, I just don't have any idea when that might be. I'll get in contact when Harrismith time comes round again.

Long splitter cracks, right? And to get up, you go on past the campsite and then turn left up the slope?

Mario brothers? Nope. Keep guessing.
As for the directions, Yip, that's about right. There was something of a marked trail going up the kloof which is more or less on the line you indicated, but that was a decade ago...

Let me know when the time comes round... It's mountainpursuits@gmail.com

b.t.w. Here's Gavin Pecham's comments:
"ta for the info - i didn't place those chains - my RDs warn people to take two 50 m ropes because the top pitch is 45 m long. We PLANNED to place chains there to enable people to climb the route with one rope, but never got around to it. So, at this stage, I have no idea who placed chains there. Anyway, it's about time that people who whinge a lot should get off their asses and make some input towards our sport - like cleaning and maintaining routes and access paths etc.
cheers, gavin"

Hi

Been to Harrismith this last weekend. Looks like nothing has been done for 10 years

Actually not true for all the climbs but the large majority have rusted bolts & chains on them. Nothing wrong with the original hangers though! In a few places we found that the sandstone had become weak & the anchors were now unsafe as they are attached to "hollow" rock -see Serengeti Slab.

Someone has been busy on some of the more trafficked climbs though. Just a question though:

If you look at this picture one can see that this looks like a very good solution to the problem of wearing chains, BUT are the industrial shackles rated? If not then attaching to the chains below them is a lot less secure then to the original Hanger eyes.

Would this mean that you would still need to belay off the anchors but that the industrial shackles are ok for abseiling on?

Please do not misunderstand me, I am grateful to the installer of the new chains, but this is a safety question. ARE THE SHACKLES A SAFE OPTION?

Is there a "guardian" for Everest/ Eagle mountain? Or who is the person who has been sorting these things out- maybe the MCSA can see the way to buying some 316 Stainless Nuts, washers & chains for this guy to use. I sympathise with the "oldtimers" saying its someone elses turn but it would help to co ordinate it through someone (like Jacques )

Opinions?

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Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

Heh, heh. I would love to get to Eagle Mountain more, will they pay petrol too? But I suspect Gavin Raubenheimer gets there a lot more than I do.
As for those chains, I suppose it could go, I just have a thing about people using D-shackles. Somewhere, someone is going to get hurt with those things. Can't we just use maillons/quick links?

ciao

That is actually what I was asking . So who sells Maillons (the long oval type) ? Naturally if they are rated they would be the right way to go...

Once again this is not a criticism, but a way of doing things safer.

So who is the mystery guardian? If you make yourself known I am sure we can find a way for you to get shiny new stainless steel stuff...

I have not been there for years & am unlikely to go back in a hurry, but would like the place to be safe (even if it seems to have no other maintenance done!)

Responses? Maybe Gavin Raubenheimer? or doesn't he use the internet?

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Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

Sorry a bit of a hi-jack, but since we are on the subject of Harrysmith, does anyone know where the "woppa cave" is? if so does anyone have a route guide for it???

Steep section far left of Alternate crag i.e. past the routes on the honeycomb..

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You have an opinion, so do I. When these differ, please don't confuse your opinion with the truth, nothing is absolute.

"Steep section far left of Alternate crag i.e. past the routes on the honeycomb.."

Nope, this would be the Bushman cave (not bushman complex either).
WOPR is actually on Mooihoek to the far right of the campsite(when looking up at Mooihoek from the campsite.)
I remember it being quite a walk back in the day, I'm sure the path is rather overgrown by now.. may be hard to find.
I think the path may have been in the region of the picnic boulders. To get here you would drive straight down the road past the campsite.
WOPR had only 1 or 2 routes, but the 25 was worth climbing, if only for the kingswing which sent you into the middle of nowhere with about 200 meters of Vreistaat below you. pretty cool...

You can get quick links (unrated maillons) at any good hardware store. Just get the 8mm or 10mm jobbies to make sure it's strong enough.
If you want to go the expensive, rated product route, mail me at info@mountainpurusits.co.za and I will quote you on them.

So ja, let's talk about those stainless steel replacement parts, sponsorships, and petrol money, and I will see if I can organise a little maintenance work...

ciao

I asked a question a while ago (http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic. ... 4&start=20) about using hardware store quicklinks as opposed to Mailons, but the consensus seemed to be against it.

At the risk of reopening the debate, have you used the hardware store jobbies?

You're quite right

Sorry for the misinformation gator.

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You have an opinion, so do I. When these differ, please don't confuse your opinion with the truth, nothing is absolute.

Ok so no one knows what they climbed...

Back to the point:

It looks like a 6mm screw type D shackle can take about 300Kg & 10mm version 750 Kg from what I could find in a rapid search on the internet....

So at that rating---- Fire away Jacques---I will happily set up an Everest BARF (Bolt & Anchor Replacement Fund). You guys must be crazy assuming hardware stuff is plenty strong!

I will check for more details as those value were IMPERIAL (what a silly system)

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Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

This article may be of interest to you Test The Stress

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Well, to be honest, I carry a hardware store jobbie permanently on my harness for when I need to escape from a route. But that's for a once-only usage. If I were to use a maillon to put up chains, where they are going to be hanging around there for years on end, I would rather go for the rated product. I have considered getting stainless steel maillons for chains, but they were just too expensive.