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 Post subject: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 10:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:25 pm
Posts: 5
I only do sport climbing and i am looking for a rope with high endurance and also a rope that you canb use for a few years. What's the most appropriate mm's and brand to choose at an affordable price?Beal?Blue water?Roca?Tendon?


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:55 am
Posts: 269
Location: Pretoria
Real Name: Brian Weaver
Personal opinion here, but I'd recommend Beal ropes... The have two in particular that I know from experience are quite durable and great for sport climbing in particular. Firstly I'd recommend the edlinger, it's inexpensive and a 10.2mm which is durable but not as heavy as the Top GunII which is a 10.5mm and R600 more expensive at MMO.

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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Posts: 235
Just be careful when selecting a rope. The number of UIAA rated falls is a good indicator of how much punishment a rope can take.

An example is the Beal Tiger which looks durable but can only take 7 UIAA falls & is 10mm Ø, whereas the 9.7 Booster can take 9 & the Top Gun 11. Clearly you can see which one you should get.

Personally I believe Beal & Blue Water will wear a lot better then ROCA & Tendon, but its your choice, no clear cut answer.

Have fun choosing. :)

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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:09 pm
Posts: 248
Ditto BrianWeaver.

All ropes have same safety ratings, the compromise is between weight (diameter) and lifespan.

Also a fan of 10.2 - just seems the right balance between being a good working rope but will last a good while.

Get a 60m, or even a 70m if you're at Boven. That way you can chop the ends, which take the most beating, as the rope ages.

I've always been happy with Beal.


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 706
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
Always keep fresh ropes in stock. Wait for ropes to be on special, then stock up making the most of a good price. Ropes are consumables & should be used (but not abused) like there is no tommorrow.


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 5:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 566
Real Name: Warren Gans
to me it sounds as though durability is more important here then price (weightg and $). above someone mentioned the weight of the Edlinger vs the Top gun. for the record there is a 3 gram differance per meter, not major when you consider the TG last for 13 falls, while the edlinger is good for 8- these numbers arew based on UIAA stats, not Beal who underrate their ropes. Recomended retail on an Edlinger is R1709, TGII R2399. if you statisticly look a the numbers the TGII is worth R2745.

run out of time, will say more later

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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:29 am
Posts: 179
Edelrid ropes last forever!


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1166
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
the number of falls rating is almost irrelevant unless there is a BIG difference between ropes - anything from 8 up should be fine. the falls rating is based on factor 2 falls which you are unlikely to experience - many experienced climbers have never taken a factor 2. in all of modern climbing history a rope has never broken based on the force of a fall alone - only when cut over a sharp edge.

the durability of your rope will depend more on the way you treat it and how often you climb on it (and the type of routes). the sheath is very important since it protects the core - the core alone carries the strain in case of a fall.

and i agree that 10.2mm is the way to go for a 1st rope.


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1166
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
a good article from rei.com on rope selection:

http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/ropes.html


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 235
I think Mokga...whatever... has the talent of saying the right things for all the wrong reasons :cyclops: . Of course the UIAA rating is not that relevant if one is considering one fall....the reason I mentioned it is, as mentioned above, that it gives an indicator of how long you can take lots of hard falls before the rope becomes stretched out & is useless for its primary purpose---taking falls.

Many of the climbers (in the Cape at least :wink: ) are likely to stretch their rope out long before the sheath becomes hammered & fuzzy.

So yes, take good care of your rope, no matter which one you choose, & keep in mind that the elastic capabilities of the rope are a very important part of the rope. So when it has no more stretch in it, even if it looks good, it needs to be retired or put on light duty toproping.

I am also for you going 10.2 or 10.5 & as you saw these have a high number of UIAA falls.

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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1166
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
he smelldude, point taken. what i wanted to bring across is that the difference in lifespan between an uiaa 8 fall and 11 fall rope of the same diameter is not that significant. when i bought my 1st rope i thought you could take literally only 8 or 11 substantial falls and therefore the 2nd rope will last 30% longer - not the case. a more stretchy rope also has advantages such as lower impact force and better knotability, but that's a whole new discussion.

btw, the uiaa test is dropping a 178pound dead weight for 15 feet on a 9 feet rope (i.e. a fall factor of 1.78) over a 10mm radius. a real life situation is very unlikely to have such a high fall factor and has a number of other dynamic elements to reduce the impact of the fall - therefore the huge amount of redundancy in the test.


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:27 pm
Posts: 146
Location: East London
Real Name: Matthew Bekker
any Beal rope around 10mm is the way to go!


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:47 am 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 12:56 am
Posts: 124
In the previous Rock and Ice mag(CityROCK stocks them), they had a pretty nifty rope review.
Wus called the Gear Edition.
Go check it out for a good idea of what ropes makes the cut...um, no pun intended...

j


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:54 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Stacey
I started a post like this about a year ago when I was buying my first rope. I also wanted a "nice" rope that would be safe a last a long time. Also wanting it in the 10-10.5mm range.
I was going to go for a Beal Top Gun(I think) [Beal make nice ropes] but it just went up in price before I was going to buy it and I couldn't afford it. I settled on a Bluewater Eliminator and have been extremely happy with it so far. I don't know much about the other brands abut I would say go for a Beal or a Blue Water....


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 Post subject: Re: What rope to choose?
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 12:56 am
Posts: 124
I'm very wary of vouching for something unless I've really tested the product extensively. Taking falls up to 10m(easily done on some routes at Paarl Rock), I've found a very surprising result: I had to cut my Mammut(a rope I thought was the best), while my girlfriends' Bluewater taking approx the same punch, and wus still going fine... and, yes, I had almost used it as much ...
Now I'm not ripping Mammut off here, just saying that the Bluewater surprised me since I didn't expect it to.

And to agree with some previous posts, I'm leaning toward getting a 70m next time, cutting a rope just feels wrong to me... but then at least you'll have plenty left for the 30m routes.

j


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