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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Tour De Force (The Ledge, TM)

Bruce Daniel and I played on Tour De Force yesterday. The 1st pitch, originally graded 23 prior to the hold breaking off is desperately hard and neither of us could do the move through the roof. We sort of worked out a sequence whereby one rails round then uses a lay back pinch where the hold broke off and then found a small edge for one’s left hand over the lip. Bruce could then bounce his left hand to the crack on the left but this is too long for me. I managed to kick my left foot out left to a straddle across to the left but as I am not supple enough could not move from there.

Anyone done the route since it lost the hold?

The second pitch – also graded 23, but only because it seems a little scary – succumbed easily on top rope and to leading it; in fact there is a pretty good, but critical rock 1 placement that makes it safe. Any comments?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 7:56 pm
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I think Ed is credited with the first lead since I broke the hold off. He gave it about 25/26 if I recall correctly. Sequence still much the same, except you have the crimp for the right hand instead of the larger, always very creaky, flake. I must have done the route at least 3 times before oneday the flake decided it had had enough. From the crimp, if your arms are long enough, you slap over the lip with the left, and then slap again for the rail. A two move wonder.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:42 am 
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There ain't no crimp where the flake was that's usable.... Must do a lay-back move...

Will ask Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:56 am 
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You are using the crimp/layback edge, left where the flake broke off.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:05 pm 
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Yep.... But it is not a down-ward crimp. One cannot even get a tiny black alien in there or a rock 1 for pro....


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:13 pm 
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Crimping is just the position of the fingers isn't it? Anyway, Bruce's method sounds about correct. Right hand on "that hold", left-hand slap over lip for wrinkle, stabilise, slap again with left for rail. Shouldn't come off once you have the rail. Is the peg still there? If so, what condition is it in?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:33 pm 
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Peg is mechanically good but diff to clip. Even if it fails you can lace the rail on the left before you even cut loose. So it couldn't be safer...


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