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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 12:05 pm
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The Placebo Effect 17 N ***

Opposite The Doppler Effect is a greyish face on an obvious buttress about 35m high. The route takes a direct line up the front of this buttress.
1. 35m Scramble up 3m from the river (large pool) to a large belay ledge at the base of the face. Climb straight up the grey face to the right side of an obvious inverted triangle of rock. Climb over this to the left and climb the hand crack above to a small roof. Step left and continue up past another small roof. Continue straight up to belay on top of the column.
Descent: abseil from a tree on the upstream side of the buttress or climb the 2nd pitch of Polished Peformance.

First Ascent 4/7/2009 L. Jackson, A. Hartmeier


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File comment: The Placebo effect: the ability to climb well thinking that your gear is good when in reality.....
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:55 pm
Posts: 55
Hello Lester

Here is the RD for a route called NO MAN's LAND. I climbed it a few years ago, and would put it down as the same route you have just climbed. It definitely takes the crack up the center of the buttress as shown in your photo, but may have a slightly different start.

NO MAN'S LAND 15 **
About 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction there is a prominent 20m grey face on the true right hand side, up which runs a slightly irregular crack. Scramble up to belay on a ledge 3m above the river, at the foot of easier rock leading up to the face.
1. 30m 15 Climb easily up to the shallow recess capped by an overhang, at the lower left hand corner of the face. Move through the overhang using a small, hopefully well-jammed, block and continue up, bearing slightly right, to a good stance at the apex of the face. The crack running up the face is necessary only for runners.
etc etc


Based on your memory of the route, would you say it is the same thing?

Cheers
Andrew Porter


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 12:05 pm
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Yes it looks like almost exactly the same line, with no need to add our very slight variation to the next RD. It certainly looked like it was going to go at a higher grade than it did. I'll keep looking for more elusive magalies routes!!
Regards, Lester


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Well done for doing and writing it up. Whether its old or new......


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 693
Yea I agree. I think I might just go look for it some time. For what it is worth, I like your description better.
"The crack running up the face is necessary only for runners." - I guess you have to climb it to understand what this is supposed to mean :?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 354
Magalies still has loads to offer in the way of new trad routes. In the last year I've done 3 new good lines and am busy working a 4th. At the upper end of the grade scale there's still some gems to be plucked. Headpointing tactics allows some real desperates to be done - look at Heinrich's new 28 in Upper Cedarberg. Come on Andrewp, Flex and others. The kloofs are closer than Boven. With pre-placed kit I'm sure you can figure out some new classics. In most of the kloofs the grades stop at about 27. There's definitely scope to push that into the 30's...


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