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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:31 pm
Posts: 61
Hi Guys,

I've been trying the route 'Urban Raptors' at Bronkies and I can't figure out the crux sequence. Does anyone have any major insight into the moves required to get through the blade-like finger crack?

Also, a question about the route 'Insomnia'. Is it just me or does it seem a little rough at the grade. To me it seems just as hard as Footloose? Again, any insight?

Thanks,

Matt


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 694
Don't know about insomnia, but the usual beta for urban raptors is rather hard. Instead of doing a heal hook and simply powering your way trough it, you can try getting your feet as high as possible with your right hand in the rail. Now the trick is to use a tiny knob to the left round a small corner for your left hand. There is another (even smaller) one a bit further up that you can hold on to while you hold the sharp blade with your right hand, now from here you should be able to step (quite high) onto the rail instead of doing the powerful/painful heal hook thing. If this works for you a beer would be appreciated :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:42 pm
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For Urban Raptors, like Shorti said, you get your right hand in the finger crack, right foot heel hook on ledge, and then reach with the left to a "hidden" crimp on the left hand arete. Get your feet below you and reach with your right hand to the chock stone.

For Insomnia, the crux is at the second roof where, according to me, you'll have to climb through the middle of the roof and not on the left side arete. Taking the easy way up left is probably 22...


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 376
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
UR is a one-move wonder. Easy, that horrible slap around the left (that's the beta I was given and used) and then easy again. I reckon there are better routes to be working. :) 'One were warriors' is a much nicer route than either of the two you mention but it is quite a bit harder.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:31 pm
Posts: 61
Hi,

Thanks for the info, I think it's the little crimper around the left arete that I've been looking for. Cranking on the right alone, especially off a blade, seems a little severe so hopefully this will help. Will give it a try.

Thanks again,
Matt


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