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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 2:20 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
They work really well and the 10mm nut are probably as good as any single fixed piece of gear if correctly placed in a correct size hole. They are as strong as normal bolts and gear and therefore safer as they belong on your rack where you know what they have been up to and do not corrode out in the open.


REMOVABLE BOLTS Climb Tech Distributed exclusively by Liberty Mountain, RB's are one of the most innovative pieces to hit the market in years! Not only do RB's cut down on drilling time, but they are inconspicuous and can handle up to 3,700 lbs of force, making them as strong as conventional bolts. RB's have already gained a dedicated following among aid climbers and are just beginning to find a home on more conventional routes. RB's are "gear to get you there!" Available in three sizes.

http://www.mountainlandclimbing.com/rem ... p-207.html


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:03 pm 
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In the tradition of the Spork.....

Will this combination of Sport and Trad be known as Spard ?

Nifty gear though....same idea as the ballnuts i guess.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:35 pm 
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Posts: 565
A few questions:
Where is the best/cheapest place to buy them online?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it effectively for aid?
What is the shallowest possible hole you can drill to use it for a safe placement on lead?
So there are 3 sizes? I take it that's to fit 12, 10 and 8mm holes?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:24 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
According to the manufacturers they only come in one size for climbing - half inch, this means drilling a half inch hole (fat). Can one get imperial drill bits here?
http://www.climbtech.com/web/products_climbing.aspx

Read this review - not exactly an endorsement!
http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Pages/Tec ... Bolts.shtm

Also this: caver dies when RB pulls out!
http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/n ... ccrpt.html

Tortuga titanium bolts are now back in stock at Liberty Mountain. As I predicted the price has increased just a little to $35 a piece - ouch. But if you really must have something that will never rust.
http://www.libertymountain.com/shop/index.asp?c=186


Last edited by XMod on Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:12 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
It's as safe as any one piece of gear....


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:52 pm 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Ok, so there is a new generation of removable bolts out there...

New Features:
* Two spoon shaped wedges wrapped around an conical shaped end fitting.
* Better holding power
* Less hole deformation
* New cleaning bushing for easy removal after being loaded

Suggested Retail $55.00

Check out Climbtech.com for more info.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:28 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
So the design has been improved, still looks like it will jam if loaded heavily. Also leaves the small snag of finding imperial sds bits in SA - let me know if you find any, Ive looked but no-one seems to stock them. Also three quater inch! Thats about 18mm!!! You wanna drill holes that big in rock? especially by hand!!!!

Give it a rest guys! This is never gonna catch on and it will never ever be as clean and quick as clipping the eye of a nice stonking bolt!


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 Post subject: Re: Removable bolts
PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:01 am 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
ClimbTech Co-Founder proves the faith he has in his own company's gear by falling 50 feet (though it may have been more like 60 or 70) off a rock overhang. Jeff Jackson, editor of Rock and Ice magazine, also gives his testimony to the faith he has in the ClimbTech Removable Bolt.

-- See the video here

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:29 am 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Sorry for the ad, but Climb Tech's Removable Bolts are available through Vertical Safety Systems: 021 532 0549 http://www.verticalsafetysystems.co.za contact them for your questions.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 10:40 am 
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Two things stuck out for me in that video.

1. I'd preferred it if he'd start 25ft above the gear. Seems the dynamics of the rope came into play too quickly. Would have been cooler if he'd built a bit of momentum.
2. Didn't show him removing the gear. I'd be interested to see how hard it was.

zb.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:54 pm 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
ZAbullet: how often do you take a 70 foot fall on a single bolt? thats nearly a 20m plunge you witnessed!
These devices would have passed the EN spec rendering them safe for climbing etc. If you check out their other videos they demonstrate how to remove the bolt after heavy use. Think of them as Cams: when take a big fall and you can have fun removing it. :pirat:

Are these systems not superior to regular bolts in terms of damage done?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:36 pm 
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Warren G wrote:
how often do you take a 70 foot fall on a single bolt?


I sometimes take a 70cm fall (25cm above + stretch) on new glue-in bolts. Its terrifying! I wasn't suggesting they aren't rated or called into question their strength. Unless you are referring to the scientific use of the word "cooler" in my statement "Would have been cooler if...", I wasn't starting a debate, just stating my preference of what I think is cool.

...but if its a debate on the science you want. Then here we go.

Fall factor as demonstrated on video

Total Rope Out: Roughly 90ft (ground to bolt as an estimate) + 50ft of slack = 140ft
Total fall length: 50ft

Fall factor = 0.3571

Fall Factor if he'd been 25ft above the bolt.

Total Rope Out = Roughly 90ft (ground to bolt as an estimate) + 25ft of slack = 115ft
Total fall length = 50ft

Fall factor = 0.43478

As you can see 0.43478 > 0.3571. Therefore = Cooler.

BTW if you want my definition of a cool product test see this

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Review_The_Yates_Screamer_243.html

If you're not committing to 120ft with only 70ft out.....you're not proving anything :P

Warren G wrote:
If you check out their other videos they demonstrate how to remove the bolt after heavy use.


I will look at them and report my scientific opinion ;)

Warren G wrote:
Are these systems not superior to regular bolts in terms of damage done?


I haven't tried them, but think they are possibly a great alternative. For the record: I think they are a cool product....and I mean that in the scientific sense.

zb.


Last edited by zabullet on Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:41 pm 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Hey Warren, how about a demo for testing??

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:59 pm 
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I own some of the old RB prototypes but haven't used them.

I was very interested to see the redesign, and contacted Karl Guthrie - founder of Climbtech.

I asked:
Quote:
I saw the video of you taking a fall onto the 3/4" RB. How easily did that come out afterwards?


Karl replied:
Quote:
Very easy, just a tap on the cleaning bushing with a hammer and punch and it came right out without any damage to the bolt

Karl Guthrie
Founder, Head of Sales


I asked:
Quote:
What about the redesign and what size RB he recommends


Karl replied:
Quote:
Yes the RB’s have been redesigned. The double wedge design has a superior holding. They also have a cleaning bushing that slide along the cable. It makes cleaning stuck RB’s very easy. You can visit our website and there is a link on the home page taking you to videos. Look at the RB video on drilling and cleaning.

Yes the RB’s work great for top anchors and environmental anchors. I would recommend the ½ Climbing RB’s. If you want heavy duty top rope anchors then the ¾” / 19mm Multi-Use RB’s will work.


-Graham


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 3:36 pm 
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Real Name: Warren Gans
Justin: although this had acoured to me this wouldn't be easy for me to organise as i don't work for VSS. i am willing to bet if someone was willing to take the plunge they would contribute towards the bolt. Yes, this video would be cool! LOL

As we are debating for entertainments sake in ZABullets reply he calculated the fall factor: I would have thought that this fall would have been a 1 as the one end was attached to the anchor and the other to the "climber" and he fell from next to the anchor? Perhaps i need to watch the video again...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 4:22 pm 
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Warren G wrote:
As we are debating for entertainments sake in ZABullets reply he calculated the fall factor: I would have thought that this fall would have been a 1 as the one end was attached to the anchor and the other to the "climber" and he fell from next to the anchor?


Are you doubting my ability to NOT DO WORK and spend the day watching climbing videos? He's definitely got a belayer below him.

Warren G wrote:
Perhaps i need to watch the video again...


Perhaps you should.

;)

zb.


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