Quantcast
It is currently Sat Sep 20, 2014 4:09 am

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:37 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:22 pm
Posts: 38
Real Name: Adam Roff
Whilst you lot have been squabbling in the sandpit up at yellowwood a few of us snuck out to Tafelberg during the last year and plucked some of the fine fruit that Tony’s guide book has brought to light. I’ve been wanting to climb this line for about 15 years and for a brief few months this year was fit enough. Gosia, Francie and I opened the route in various degrees of style in January. We went back last weekend to watch Gosia, Douw and Willem get their noses bloody on Saturday, but finally crush it on Sunday. A stout effort.

Attachment:
Willem Starting Pitch 3 (23+).jpg
Willem Starting Pitch 3 (23+).jpg [ 189.62 KiB | Viewed 1567 times ]


Attachment:
Willem Pitch 3 (23+).jpg
Willem Pitch 3 (23+).jpg [ 227.98 KiB | Viewed 1556 times ]


There are more pics but maybe Justin can help me load them as it won’t let me do more than 3.

This is an incredibly gymnastic route with more heel-hooking than any other trad route I’ve been on. SNORT I will buy you a bottle of Lagervulin if you onsight every pitch of this route. BUT should you weight the rope you will buy me a bottle. I prefer Ardbeg.

I will add RD to wiki when I work out how the hell to. Meantime RD is below with another route we opened last year. The yellow/green line is another project I bin eyeing for years and started with Gosia. It is 2 pitches of 24ish so far. She will donner you if you climb it without her. I alas am taking a small nap in the early afternoon of my climbing career.

Please respect the fantastic wilderness that is Tafelberg.

Enjoy!

Attachment:
Tafelberg Main Wall Routes.JPG
Tafelberg Main Wall Routes.JPG [ 152.69 KiB | Viewed 1554 times ]


Vuvuzela 22
Tafelberg. Blue Line.
This route follows a direct line to the right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of central direct.
Do any 2 pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal
1/15m 16. Climb straight up to left facing corner to Ledge. Belay on large Block on Right.
2/ 25m 20. Climb into awkward undercut feature above block, reach left to finger crack. Up pass overhang on R, then thin moves to exit. Stance on L under roof crack (as for Digeridoo)
3/30m 19 Traverse 3m left climb up 3m and Traverse back R onto purplish nose. Follow the steep break in impeccable rock. Exit R. Climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (if you step R round the nose and go straight up grade drops to 15)
4/30m 22/23 step off the block into fierce thin crack, up to roof. Reach desperately through, then move diagonally up left into the massive left facing corner system. Climb this to roof and stance on the R.
5/ 10m 22 Move right into the short but sharp layback crack to finish
FA: Adam Roff, Francie Bϋhrmann (2008)

Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe 24
Red Line
Takes big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above, to spicy nip in the last pitch. You need a #4 camalot for pitch 2.Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below layback edge at 5m.
1/15m 21. Up pockety to layback, up this then diag R to flake. Up past rails and R to finish.
Walk R to base of corner behind some blocks. Start on L.
2/30m 23/24 Up onto narrow ledge to move R and up to wide rail. Feet in move R to base of corner. (#4 cam). Desperate move up into book. Follow to roof. Turn on R up to balanced block (don’t touch!). Swing left and mantle on ledge.
3/25m 23/24 Up and R to touch grappler but keep going up where grappler rails R. Hard traddy pull into crack. Up to big roof. Traverse R to skyline. Up to ledge.
4/50m 21 step onto nose directly above where you came up. Up to Roof. Reach round for rail. Rail L till can stand up. Step L then onto nose. Romp to massive ledge below last pitch of Frontal.
Walk left about 30m and scramble up onto a thin rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just L of big jumbled blocky corner system and is the top block of a pile of 3. If you are in the right place there will be a fred flintstone briefcase left of the block.
5/30m 23 Walk L to end of block and place gear – camalot #2 in a slot under overhang. This is the jesus piece. When you’re ready, traverse L under overhang, then hard move up to laybacks. Up crack. Straight to summit past the last mew as the tiger curls up to sleep again.

FA: Adam Roff, Gosia Lipinska, Francie Bϋhrmann (Jan 2009)
First Continuous Free Ascent: Gosia ‘pixi’ Lipinska, Douw ‘the ou’ Steyn, Willem ‘biceps’ le Roux (November 2009)

_________________
Adam Roff


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:55 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1167
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
WOW! looks fan-tas-tic :thumleft:
but whassup with the name?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:58 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:22 pm
Posts: 38
Real Name: Adam Roff
guess you'll have to do the route. All clear then...

_________________
Adam Roff


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:36 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 812
Real Name: Greg Hart
Route looks amazing guys! I like the Giraffe/Tiger!

Adam - adding to wiki is simple (uploading pics and creating links not so simple). Ive made a page for Tafelberg, just go the main page, log in, then scroll down and you will see Tafelberg written in red, click on it - it links to a blank page where you can paste stuff. For images: create a link to a file and then upload the image. Sublinks and formatting you will have to sus out tho.


Last edited by XMod on Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 12:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 354
Nice one guys and gals! Definately looks like one to fly down for...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:31 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2990
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Looks awesome, well done guys :D

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 5:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Adam you are on for a bottle of Laggies but if I don't then Ardies donna wash. Hey man that's BS! If you had done it onsite then ok but you didn't so no Ardberg!

I also prefer Ardberg but it has to be the 18 year old! I ain't gonna fry my brain and liver with 10 year old stuff and anyway I could be arrested for consorting with under aged whisky!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 5:04 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Adama. By the way, sort of climbed a variation of Africa Lunch up the face with the little wrinkles to the left today. Ran out out crimping power at the crux but will do it next time. Probably 24eish. So same rules apply? - if you don't you gimme a bottle 18 year old Ardberg???????


Shot on doing the route. It makes my heart sing when dudes are out there cranking harder new routes!!!!!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat May 27, 2006 2:10 pm
Posts: 133
Location: cape town
Geepers what an inspiration!!! Just so beautiful. Fantastic guys well done!

Neil


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Is the Giraffe pitch the same as colli extendenticum? (long neck)?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:44 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:55 am
Posts: 17
nice pics ... post more please. Beautiful line. Tafelberg is the most beautiful crag on the planet and some of the best Trad climbing in the world.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:18 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2990
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Adam sent me the pics, I'll try and post one up every hour or so.

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:24 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 720
I think the giraffe pitch is named so because of...

Attachment:
giraffe.JPG
giraffe.JPG [ 68.75 KiB | Viewed 931 times ]


In the big photo of Gosia you can see it better.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2990
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
You mean this image?

Image

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Baidu [Spider], Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group