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 Post subject: Paradigm Shift repeats
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 9:49 am 
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 9:06 am
Posts: 196
Location: Cape Town
I was wondering if there have been any recent ascents of Paradigm Shift (22) on the Sentinel, Drakensburg?
Was thinking of making it my project and wanted to confirm the grade and quality of the route. :D
Has there even been second ascent :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 9:48 am
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Hi,

Yes it has been repeated ay least once. I know Dave Glass and Steve Bretherick did it. They said it was pretty hard, a few funny bolt positions, some very dodgy rock (this is the berg!) but generally v good. I'd say you want to be comfortable on 25 normally to do this route, an dont forget your helmet!

A


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 4:14 pm 
There have been at least five repeats that I know of, including my own to add some more bolts on the top pitch. All reports i've heard confirm the grade and say the quality of the rock is good. I wouldn't say you need to be comfortable on anything more than a 22 but you must be able to climb six 20 to 22's in a row as the route is quite sustained.

Definitely bring a helmet, and 60m ropes. Enjoy!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2005 1:46 pm
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Nani and I climbed it. Steve Brethe was lying on his back in hostpital at the time. Or so he says.

If you can climb 6 pitches of around 22 in a day, you'll be fine. It's in the sun so you may get baked. It's got lank bolts, so don't worry too much.

Big ups to Douard and co for equipping a rad route.

Dave


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 Post subject: rope drag
PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 12:23 pm 
My self and three others tried to complete the route a week ago. but rain and hail cut us short. we were 4 piches up before we were forced to retire. the grade is fine. we went with a climber who only climbs 21 and he manageged to second the 22 quite easly. BUT watch out for the rope Drag i was leading the first 22 and i felt like a 400kg hippo. bring two ropes or some long slings as runners if you are a poor climber like us. on other points: on at least two occations rocks fell on my helmet. dont trust the jug by the second bolt on the third pitch it is loose. well worth the climb one of the best climbs i have ever done.
P.S Dont feed the baboons!


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