Olla,

Was at City Rock yesterday and stumbled onto what I think is a very interesting bit of gear! Might not be new to all you long time standing traddies, but it's new for me.
Had a browse around the net for info and reviews on this but found very little. City rock stocks the DMM Big...?... but I was able to find some info on the Trango BigBro (see pic). Their expansion range seems really impressive, but I still stand unconvinced with this bit of gear? Any body using these bad boys and care to enlighten me a bit?
Thanx.

I saw these in a climbing book. The big "big bros" are used in big crack climbing according to the specific scenario in the book. Probably where big cams are too small. But the small big bros ,mmm not sure when they receive preference.

_________________
Since I started climbing I developed a big crack addiction.

They work in offwidths/squeeze chimneys where only the biggest/no cam will fit. They have kickass range/weight ratio (better than cams).

I think Mr Marshall has a couple? And a C4 size 6 or two?

Thanx guys.

I'm hearing you! I'd agree on a look, feel and guess basis tho.

But my uncertainty comes in, in the fact that...
To my understanding the end to end displacement force is determined by the spring (spring force) within the unit (that's on the DMM unit, seems that the Trango works on a 'screw principle'?). Sure if you are coming up against two edges/ ribs/ blocks either side no prob, but use in a clean offwidth crack? Mmmmm? Not so sure!
Maybe I'm missing something?

Brad, the spring/screw is just to adjust it to the correct length. If you look closely at the ends you will see they are at a slight angle. The sling is also not in the centre of the device. excuse the poor drawing but you should be able to get the idea. Once there is load on the sling it "cams" itself. Hope this helps!

Hey guys

The Big Bro (Trango) has angled sides(on the edges) to ensure that the side you pull on gets 'stuck-in' the more you pull on it. Haven't tested it yet, but it seems to be built on solid enigineering. I had a long look at the one the stock at Cityrock. They has the blue one.

loneragnger: the sling actually gets put on the very end, way left side in your excellent Van Gogh pic.

Never having climbed with the Big Bro's my opinion in purely theoretical...

But,

I always get a little jumpy each time I press the release button and the Bro "deploys".

I think that placing a Bro is not as simple as pulling a cam's trigger wire.

Placing a Big Bro you have to:
1) Find the right size
2) Press the button to deploy the spring.
3) Probably you will need to turn it's axis to correct (think of a Bro as a very big Hex)
4) Manually turn/turn/turn the setting ring/screw/thingy to secure the Bro in place.
This, step 4, may prove very challenging all the times you desperately need to place a piece fast.

I'm sure Big Bros have a very valid place in trad (think 1st pitch of Energy Crisis, if you are a sissy )

But IMHO rather fork the extra Rands, carry the extra grams and get yourself proper cams. Get the Bros later.

The Bros that are bigger (blue&gold) that the largest cam have a place, but only if you are over-keen. They protect routes that the average person doesn't second look. They are not fun to place & often difficult to climb past...easy to knock out on the way down.

Cams are better.

I have 2 blue & 2 gold. Not an every day item. But I have used them all a bunch of times. Took both blues up Towerkop at Christmas, unfortunatly they were too big for the crack I had in mind. The golds are often to big.

Thanx all.
Kinda confirmed my intial feelings.
Would be nice to have (the more toys the merrier), but will have to wait till Christmas time so as to put a request through to the big fat fello in the red gown.
Cheers,