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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:17 am 
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Real Name: peter parker
as the title says, i need some help with how to crack the top section of task saturated, i get stuck after the 2 chicken heads moving up to the slopers and clipping the chains.... damn slopers kill me.!

Any real help would be appreciated :thumleft: .

peace :afro:

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:33 pm 
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You mean "Bolt Saturated"?

Layback, feet up, grab small intermediate and bounce the sam right hand to throw for the Aloe like everybody else?

Seriously, there are more ways than one, typically the crux is to get your feet high up & body set up for going up to the finishing hold, try and do it statically - it will make you stronger!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:34 pm 
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In case Gustav was too cryptic.

It's been a long time (always get your excuse in early), but as I recall, there's a jug slightly higher than the chains, somewhere near the Aloe. Long live the Aloe.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:28 pm 
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hahahahaha! thanks Gustav!
It will be just my luck it comes out and klaps me in the pip! And I will be forever known as the guy who made it a hard 25 :lol: imagine the drama!!

But seriously, I cant reach the aloe, I have heard before that theres something positive above it, but peel before i even get there...

sigh, guess i will just have to keep trying and figure something out. perhaps a red bull..

also heard of extending the draws, but im not keen to do that..

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:20 pm 
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Gustav makes mention of 'right hand' somewhere in his beta. I think the crimps low down are to small, so I dyno thru the bottom crux (I skip 2 draws in the middle...it is bolt-saturated :-) ), I find the right side-pull just below the last draw irrelevant so I dead-point/dyno for the chickenheads down and left of the Aloe and then holding the lower (better) with my right I, believe it or not, throw/dyno blind (i.e facing left in the righthand layback) with the left over my head for the Aloe...

So my beta involves 3 dyno's, one of which is blind and backwards - but that's just me. I also had psyche-belayer Hawkins helping with enthusiasm :thumleft:

You did ask for ANY beta
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:42 pm 
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Tristan wrote:
Gustav makes mention of 'right hand' somewhere in his beta. I think the crimps low down are to small, so I dyno thru the bottom crux (I skip 2 draws in the middle...it is bolt-saturated :-) ), I find the right side-pull just below the last draw irrelevant so I dead-point/dyno for the chickenheads down and left of the Aloe and then holding the lower (better) with my right I, believe it or not, throw/dyno blind (i.e facing left in the righthand layback) with the left over my head for the Aloe...

So my beta involves 3 dyno's, one of which is blind and backwards - but that's just me. I also had psyche-belayer Hawkins helping with enthusiasm :thumleft:

You did ask for ANY beta
8)




Lol, thanks Tristan,
I have managed the whole thing (except final move) without any dynos.... but i might resort to it :eye: hahaha. :puker:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:44 pm 
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This from someone who hasn't actually pointed it.

BUT

Seem to remember there is a key foot (relatively high, can't remember which one, left?) once you have the chicken heads. Then up for a sharp right hand crimp, then the left hand bowl and stand up statically for the sloper (there might be a need to get a foot up just before this).

Hmm, that might be no more use than the triple dyno beta :>)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:36 am 
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So I got back on it...it has been a while?

I kept my left hand on the lower of the 3 little horns (the most positive hold up there), reach up to the sloping dish with my right, hike the right foot up and deadpoint to the jug with the right.

So much for static maneuvers...I did not check out alternatives but there were other options I am sure.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:27 am 
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Gustav wrote:
So I got back on it...it has been a while?

I kept my left hand on the lower of the 3 little horns (the most positive hold up there), reach up to the sloping dish with my right, hike the right foot up and deadpoint to the jug with the right.

So much for static maneuvers...I did not check out alternatives but there were other options I am sure.


Ok cool.... :thumright thanks! I will try that deadpoint thing...
I have one question though, is the deadpoint to a jug up by the aloe :? ??

25th of sep, I got a date with those slopers.. haha :lol: :eye:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:35 am 
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There is an amazing jug just left of the Aloe - if you fall off that ... well ...then you'll have to start all over!?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:12 am 
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thanks :afro:

yeah I hate when theres a difficult last section for that exact reason!

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