Hey guys I see UCT Mountain club bolted most routes who could we speak to on putting new chains
(glu ins) in Dragonfly... so called 26 @ main crag. Really nice route but is something broken off on the face up top? last 2bolts before chains.. really hard!

ARF has not rebolted it as the feedback was that it wasn't a good route. If everyone thinks otherwise we can make a plan. Maybe "100dgrs" can help?

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AndyDavies

Dragonfly's a great route! But the top's friekin impossible! Luckily I spoke to Malcolm Gowans about the beta(i think its his route) and he said you have to traverse right almost to that 23(forgot the name), and use those grips as a right sidepull effect, to gain the top. I might be wrong on this, so anyone with feedback are welcome to correct me here...

Oi!

Climbed it today, chains are rusted to shit but they held
Not the most amazing route I've been on. Only problem is too many rests. final push to the chains, layback the left arete to the chains, use the mono on the face for some support if your finger fits.

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...Chalk is cheap...

Chains are really bad! really need new ones. Even though there are alot of rests its a worth while route to get on, there arent that many hard routes at Silvermine so I recon its worth a rebolt. That beta sounds about right mullet, I went further left up the side.

In my opinion lets put in new anchors etc! let me know if I can help.
Jahne : 073 982 5211

Please try and include a picture of the offending hardware - this makes it easier for people with the 'know how' to make a more educated call on whether the hardware should be inspected more closely.

Bolt from Gift of Wings at the Mine in Cape Town:
The first bolt (granite background - below) is from Gift of Wings at the Mine in Cape Town (a crag that gets sea air which causes corrosion) - this bolt failed when someone hung (their bodyweight) on it.
This is an example of a badly corroded bolt.

The next bolt is from Gospel Express in Montagu: (below)
The rust is superficial (I have yet to remove the nut and hanger to see if there is any gross corrosion wastage inside the bolt hole).
Gospel Express is a nice North facing dry route. So even if it gets wet it dries out quick. And it far from the coast so no chlorides to eat up the steel.

I will post pictures of what I find.

- Don't forget that the Anchor Replacement Fund is continually working to keep you from hitting the deck

ARF is made possible by sponsors (see the list on the ARF page), donations from climbers and climbers who give their time replacing/removing bolts.

- Click here see a list of the routes that have had their anchors replaced

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Climb ZA - Administrator