Does anyone have info about routes up Tweedledum (Upper Tonquani)? My dad told me a long time ago about a route he climbed there many years ago when they camped there. He walked around it until he found a way he thought most doable for him. It is on the opposite side of Crack Attack on Tweedledee (i.e. the furthest away from it). If you look at the twins from Upper Tonquani, it is on the far left of the left most twin. My dad asked me yesterday if I would mind climbing it to tell him what I though of it. It's rather good, much better than I thought it would be. Steep, juggy and a little thought provoking. Protection is adequate with 3 slung chicken heads, an ok nut and a brilliant 2.5 friend at the mantle move 2/3 up. I think it goes at roughly 17.

I also climbed that route a year or two ago. Also thought it was 17/18ish. Quite fun. Getting off was interesting.

I was fortunate that my dad refused to climb it with me, so I could just untie and chuck a rope over so he could tie it off on a tree. I suppose if you are two on top with no-one below, you can abseil off either side simultaneously.

Did the same one sometime in June - 3 slung chicken heads for pro. To get down, I hung a sling round a biggish chicken head on top, did the whole up-down-through the sling-rope in thirds-so you can pull the rope to get the sling off-thing. Simul rapping would be aweful on nice thin halves when you pull the rope over the sharp texture.

17 sounds about right...there is also something on the other side (on the side facing Tonquani) ...if I remember correctly, you stem up a corner and then pull through an overhang with not much gear. Has anyone tried that?

I'm not sure we're talking about the same route Pierre. I'm talking about the thinner of the two. It sounds a little like you are talking about the fat one (maybe their names are swapped around - I have Tweedledum as the thin one, closest to Lower Tonquani). If I'm not mistaken you are talking about a route just to the right of the splitter crack on the fat one (Crack Attack). It starts with what looks like a sizeable jump to a chicken head? I'm talking about a diagonal line (from left to right) that starts on the thin twin on Upper Tonquani's side. If you walk from Kitchen Corner Gully (Short Gully) towards the twins, it will be the left most arete (for lack of a better word) that you can see. The first chicken head looks like an obelisk and just left and up from it is a gargoyle with a poker chip size hole through it. I don't remember any corners on the thin twin. I'll see if I perhaps have a picture somewhere, to remove all doubt