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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 5:36 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Cape Town - (Corner of Peace)
Real Name: Al Tan The Disco Man
I have had an awfull year of climbing due to countless injuries. Most my fault for sure!!

Recently I was working a project with a mate of mine and pulled on a 2 finger pocket (ring and rude finger). I "felt" the noise through my wrist/forearm (electrical shock) followed by pins and needles on the tips of my ring and pinky finger :( . Stoped all climbing straight away and its been 3 weeks of R.I.C.E but still have sharp pain when testing fingers in open hand crimp positions (mainly on every edge at the office).

Just want to hear if anyone has had a similar injury and what was the recovery time, advice etc.....my Dec climbing trip to Boven feels like it is in serious trouble.

Big ups
Al


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 378
Location: CT
Real Name: Paul P
Howdy. I had exactly the same experience many moons ago. I was out entirely for over 6 months. I hope yours is not so hectic!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:35 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:22 am
Posts: 99
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Bradley Gie
Eya. Also had similar sh1ty pop and pain on my index and "rude" finger. no scientific answer unfortunately, but mine only took about 3-4 weeks to fix itself and although it still felt a little uncomfortable initially, I took it slow and I'm now back to 100%. Good luck and don't rush it!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 8:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:48 pm
Posts: 2
Real Name: Greg Bowden
Bleak Dude
I feel your pain. Just recoverd from one myself. I spoke to a lot of people about it, many of them medics or something of that variety, and I managed to figure out that the most likely problem was a strained or even torn A2 pully (ligament). This tiny bugger takes a shit load of strain during things like crimping and pockets, amazing why they dont snap more often.

Treatment: STOP ALL CLIMBING NOW. I did mine while climbing an intervarsity comp and I just decided to tape up, shut up and climb the finals... BAD MOVE, probably added a couple of weeks of down time to my recovery. I then started by treating it with mild anti-inflammatorys and I had a friend in the medical profession make me a splint to keep the bugger immobilized for 4 weeks... prob didn't need to go that long but it seemed to do the trick. after that it felt really stiff once i took the splint off and it only started to feel normal two weeks after that. Started climbing again, easy stuff only, 6weeks after the injury. its now week 8 and i am back to working 7Bs (all be it carefully.)

Any way thats my experiance of such dark things. there's a book called One Move Too Many which is a good read if u get a lot of injurys, give it a look.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 5:36 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Cape Town - (Corner of Peace)
Real Name: Al Tan The Disco Man
Shot guy,

Indeed i will rest but, gosh darn it I want to climb so bad :mrgreen:

@crimppimp, I know your pain. I actually tore my A2 last September at boven and was out for 6 months plus I visited an OT. I think I done somthing els cause my pain is in my wrist about an inch from where hand meets arm.....anyway its stil messed up (ps:same hand so they prob a bit related)!!!!!

Shot for the responses.

I hope you guys are all still climbing today!! That will def give me some hope!!

Sheebeee


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