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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:52 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Lukas Malan
I climbed Sands of Time at Paarl last weekend. Awesome route, and good mental training for a wuss climber such as myself. On a sideline - has anyone here ever fallen on granite slab climbing?

My question: Can pitches 2 and 3 be linked? Because that hanging stance is horrible and to me kind of spoiled the route. With a 60m rope one can easily link these pitches, the only issue that remains is rope drag (which I imagine, thanks to the runouts, would be tolerable).

Then a note on the bolts: Many of the hangers are loose (can be tightened BY HAND), and some of the hangers look green and rusty. And what's up with the fixed biners on the hanging belay's bolts?

Cheers
gollum

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm
Posts: 565
gollum wrote:
I climbed Sands of Time at Paarl last weekend. Awesome route, and good mental training for a wuss climber such as myself. On a sideline - has anyone here ever fallen on granite slab climbing?

Yes. "Run Forest, run!"

Quote:
My question: Can pitches 2 and 3 be linked? Because that hanging stance is horrible and to me kind of spoiled the route. With a 60m rope one can easily link these pitches, the only issue that remains is rope drag (which I imagine, thanks to the runouts, would be tolerable).

Which hanging stance? I added an extra bolt on the second stance for comfort a while back? Either you missed it or don't know how to use your rope to create an extended comfortable tie-in - very useful on multi-pitch climbs.

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Then a note on the bolts: Many of the hangers are loose (can be tightened BY HAND), and some of the hangers look green and rusty. And what's up with the fixed biners on the hanging belay's bolts?

Tighten the bolts with a spanner.
Green & rusty no. Camouflaged, yes.
Many people prefer to retreat from the second pitch instead of climbing the diagonal traverse pitch - the biners aren't my doing though.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:35 pm
Posts: 76
hey gollum

Yeah pitches 2 and 3 can be linked. I did it the other day with a ~65m rope. there was a fair amount of rope left and I dont remember rope drag being a problem. I also crapped myself on the last pitch if thats the slab you were referring to.

jimbo


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