Quantcast
It is currently Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:07 pm

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Extending draws
PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:54 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:21 am
Posts: 268
Real Name: Henk Grobler
How do I describe this? Clip two biners on a Dynex/Dyneema sling, push one biner through the other and clip the loop of two with that biner. You now have an extendable quickdraw. Choose to extend or not by using the draw as is, or by clipping your gear and then unclipping the second biner from all but one strand. Voila, nice for keeping rope drag under control and save some weight on biners.

Not quite sure what to call this method.

My question came about when I was cleaning a route and my buddy pointed out that several of my draws are "back-clipped". Turns out that since a Dynex sling is a lot less stiff than a sport quick draw, the rope side biner twist around resulting an a "back-clip".

Is this an issue at all? Is there a change of the rope unclipping on a fall? What method do you use to extend.

_________________
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Extending draws
PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 694
Nah, you'll be fine. I think it's only a realistic problem with short and stiff slings.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Extending draws
PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:04 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:31 pm
Posts: 61
Although it doesn't happen often a friend of mine actually witnessed the dreaded 'back clip unclip'. A guy was climbing the route 'Blaze of Glory' at Silvermine and after back-clipping the final bolt he headed towards the chains. He fell above the bolt, the rope ran over the gate, the gate opened and released the rope from its clutches. No injury resulted just a whipper but it could have been worse.

Rather clip the standard way I'd say :thumleft:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Extending draws
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:49 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1168
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
as per shorti's comment, the risk of back-clip-unclipping is miniscule with a long & supple sling. sport draws with a stiff dogbone is more risky, as per cricket's story.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Extending draws
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:38 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:24 am
Posts: 23
Real Name: Matthew Bickell
As far as I know, this technique of making an extendable quickdraw is called a "Yosemite draw" - but hey, we don't have to let the Americans claim that one...
It is quite easy to set this up wrong and end up with an "extendable draw" that just falls apart when you try extend it, so if you do not know how to do this then it would probably be best to get someone to show you before you try it.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot], markde101, Wes, Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group