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 Post subject: Torque tips
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 130
My travels take me to Bukit Keteri in Malaysia this coming week - and I read an online review that it has "numbers of loose bolts". Optimistically assuming that only the nuts are loose (and not wanting to start a discussion on David Lama's bolting ethics), we'll take a few 17mm ring spanners.

Given the potential for SCC, I don't want to over-tighten the bolts. We won't have a torque wrench. Can anyone suggest rules-of-thumb as to how tight is tight enough?

thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 712
Take a shifting spanner, I've encountered weird sizes (12mm bolts/imperial sizes) when tightening nuts.

As for a general rule of thumb, if it is an expansion bolt that has been properly set, it only requires the nut to be tight enough to stop the hanger from spinning. Experience could replace a torque wrench :bom:

Oh and as for SCC, the actual type of bolt and material would be the main factor in determining whether the bolts would be subject to SCC: Rolled vs turned bolts (all the bolts that have failed in SA were the turned ones, stainless 304 - problem is it's not easy to tell which are which after they have been placed, unless you are familiar with the specific bolt brand/model in question)

Other factors include: How far are these bolts from the sea? Prevailing winds? Relative humidity? Is the limestone the same type of aggressively corrosive one found in southern Thailand (from the location it looks like it).

The ARF has interesting info about this. http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/.

And if they are loose glue-ins, well then :( watch out for dodgy fixed ropes as well, a girl in Ton Sai fell an entire pitch after sitting back in her harness clipped only to a fixed rope used to access an upper tier crag. She was nicely caught by jungle and survived.


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 Post subject: Re: Torque tips
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2011 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:13 am
Posts: 136
Location: Benoni
Real Name: David Wade
Is there a reason why no one uses nylock nuts when bolting routes? Because nylock nuts wont work themselves loose.


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