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 Post subject: New One!
PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 311
Its great to see new routes being opened, especially if if its an 8b and its by a 16 year old south african! Juandray Marshall opened New One at the G/Face. Some cranking in the E Cape! Big up! Let's here more about the route and the lad, an interview climb.za..? I think we have a future rock star in the making. V cool. Andrew


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 Post subject: Re: New One!
PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 656
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
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Its one of Morne van der Mescht's old projects on the Lady Slipper (MCSA property). No name yet. Juan-dray proposed a grade of 32, but agreed that a second ascent would tell....lets see. It is short, steep & has serious freaking ground fall potential, the belayer(fat is better)
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has to jump off an edge to take slack...some of the bolts can't be clipped. Took him 4 months of fairly serious working.

These are working photos, the final send was too scary, nobody was thinking of pictures.


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 Post subject: Re: New One!
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:40 pm
Posts: 183
Yeah; it will be such a good thing to see more repeats by strong climbers of harder routes in the Eastern Cape. Old ones and the new ones. Jeandrè has improved tremendously from climbing easy grades less than two years ago; repeating hard ones to opening really hard and good routes. His next project he is eyeing is the route opened by Adam Ondra during the 2009 Roc n Road underneath the van Stadens train bridge. And he is working on some other hard ones as well i.e. the open project at Cleopatra Wall tried by both Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle... 8)


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 Post subject: Re: New One!
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 311
Looks hard! Good luck on your other projects Jeandray. If ever you want to spend a week in Boven or anywhere up north let me know, sure we can make a plan. PS, why was there ground fall potential? Hard clips or what? Better to stick clip first couple if its that bad. Andrew


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 Post subject: Re: New One!
PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2521
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Good stuff Juan-dray!!

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