Hi

So I'm a buying a new trad rack and half ropes. I have sold my old rack and ropes and realized that with my Beal Jokers gone, I no longer have a sport rope.
I'm a pretty mediocre sport climber and would rather go trad climbing but for those days where I cannot find a trad partner and have to head to Silvermine or wherever to clip some bolts, I would prefer to have my own rope.

Any recommendations? (I know there was a post about this recently but I can't find it now)

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Happy climbing
Nic

I think for your use the Beal Edlinger would not be a bad buy, as you don't need a high performance (these usually don't have such a long lifetime) rope. Edlinger is great value for money.

Hey Nic,

Check out the 'rope rope rope rope' thread.

Be interested to hear what you decide on and why?

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Just buy the one with the best colour, has worked for me every time, yes really!
Oh, and make sure it's long enough.

Thanks Justin, that is the thread I was looking for, my forum search skills are lacking!

Will let you know what I pick and why, even if it is just that I like the colour

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Happy climbing
Nic

Hey Nic
TBH I'm not a big fan of using single ropes as trad ropes, mostly because I like the lower impact forces (usually associated with half-ropes) to help keep manky pro / rock intact when the proverbial hits the fan, but I also quite like the redundancy offered by using double ropes in this regard.

There are a few exceptions to my thinking, most notably in AID where I prefer to aid on single lines and deal with the added weight of carrying two if needing to free climb. As always there is a compromise - and I know that my 'lower impact force' statement above is at odds with my aid statement below it, but I compromise by using screamers where necessary and gain on the jumar / simplicity of the single rope in the aid environment.

In a sport climbing environment I have long been an advocate for skinny ropes, so your dual-purpose helps here. I also appreciate the financial motivations for trying to dual-purpose your ropes. Back in the day when I was poorer than I am now (that's saying something) I tradded and sported on a Beal 9.7x60, and in fact it was part of the system which caught me on Du Toits (tho the line which actually took the load was a half rope). These days I'm privileged to have a a plethora of rope (its called gear testing )
- a set of Apus 60's for Alpine
- a set of Shikra's for Trad
- a shortened (40m) set of Apus (well used and retired from water intensive Ice / Alpine)
- a Falcon & a Hawk for sport

And even with the above options I still, occasionally, battle to decide what to take where.

For your (potential) dual-use there will be arriving in August a few Swift's - Edelrids 8.9 single (and more). Ask your local dealer (rope dealer, I have yet to 'crack' the Nigerian control of the street corners). If that fails, PM me and I'll point you in the right direction (dealer wise)

Hi Tristan

Shot for the advice. I'm in agreement with you on the using a dedicated rope for each type of climbing. My Jokers were too heavy for trad and too lightweight to survive as a sport rope (although they had a really low impact factor, a gradual halt rather than a sudden stop) and were bought when I could not afford to buy a single rope and two half ropes. But now I have some money, which is why I'm looking for a dedicated sport rope.

Edelrid ropes are getting good reviews, I'd be happy to test one of those Swifts

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Happy climbing
Nic

Colour is everything.

Pink ropes are best

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Gustav
Roc 'n Rope Adventures
Waterval Boven
013 257 0363
rocrope dot com

Blue Water Eliminator 10.2mm i had that same question about 3 months back

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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.