It is currently Thu May 23, 2013 8:12 pm

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:31 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
Any one know where is the longest sports climb?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 470
you will need to qualify that a bit more: single or multi-pitch? if single then must it be its own line or can it be an extension? and most importantly are you talking about just in RSA?

_________________
If you aren't willing to solve your own problems, how can you expect others to?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
I guess that would help if I specify more. RSA multi pitch, extension what ever just the longest bolted climb in south africa. Sorry


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 614
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Longest multipitch sport (without access issues and relatively easy grades) in the Western Cape is on Cogmans Buttress in Montague, I think, there are several routes. There is also "New Born (29)" in Yellowwood Amphitheater, in Du Toits which must be a contender at 14 pitches.

Eagle Mountain/Mount Everest in Harrismith has multipitch sport too, never climbed there so I don't know about the length.

_________________
Happy climbing
Nic


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1047
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
routes at harrismith are about 5/6 pitches if i remember correctly and thus <150m (maybe 120m?). my best guess is newborn; with the only real contenders a couple of monster routes at the place-we-are-not-allowed-to-mention (no, not lord milner hotel) - amphithetre is around 250m high with routes going to the top.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 470
there are some mixed sport and trad routes on Spitzkoppe that are also 14 pitches. I have heard rumours of a 20 pitch 21 sport route in Madagascar.

I agree tho: the bigger the wall the more respected/protected by tradites. At a practical level there is a substantial amount of effort involved in bolting, and few people willing to place 200 bolts on one route-especially at R50 each. it would be cheaper to buy a trad rack that you would have used to bolt the route in the first place! this probably explains why longer routes tend to go trad, or mixed.

for longer routes probably the most practical solution would be removable bolts where there is no trad simply for the cost involved in opening the line

_________________
If you aren't willing to solve your own problems, how can you expect others to?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:23 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:39 pm
Posts: 84
Well one of my dreams is to do El Capitan before i Die.

"Long, sustained and flawless, the Nose may be the best rock climb in the world; it is certainly the best known. On paper, at 5.9 C1, The Nose sounds easy. It’s not. With over 31 pitches of steep, exposed and strenuous climbing, The Nose is an immense physical and psychological drain. Extensive climbing experience on long routes is mandatory. The failure rate is high. "


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:59 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 777
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Lammergeyer in the Drakensberg is long too


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:47 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 779
Real Name: Greg Hart
Yeah I think Lammergeier is the one in RSA but considering who opened it I imagine it would be quite a serious/demanding lead. Otherwise Spizkoppe or Madagascar if you want truly long epics. And lets not forget Newborn, sorry Snort :wink: :bom:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 2:33 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:39 am
Posts: 139
Location: Cape Town (mostly :) )
Uhm, last I checked, Lammegeier was not a sport route....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
And I don't think the Nose is either.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:40 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 779
Real Name: Greg Hart
I must be thinking of Paradigm shift?
Image
http://www.climb.co.za/wiki/index.php/Drakensberg
Are there any other long sport routes in the Drakensberg?

Cogmans has long routes too.
Image
http://www.climb.co.za/wiki/index.php/Cogmans_Buttress


Last edited by XMod on Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:23 pm
Posts: 20
Real Name: Deon Wessels
Paradigms shift on Sentinal is a realy cool climb too. six pitches I think.

The stuff at Swinburne (Long bolt to freedom 17, wolfmothers wallpaper 21, a time to climb 23 etc) is around 150m

Power pigeon 21, at Eagle mountain (harrismith) is not the longest but one of the best climbs I've ever done....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:07 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 779
Real Name: Greg Hart
Mad:
Image
http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/madagascar1.htm

Nam:
Image

What better way to spend a rainy afternoon than dreaming of sun-kissed rock?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 779
Real Name: Greg Hart
Swinburne:
Image

Beautiful photo!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:13 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Posts: 779
Real Name: Greg Hart
Sorry Snort!
Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:56 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 23
Real Name: Ivan van der Tang
What's the longest single pitch sport route in RSA, how long is it? What's its grade? And where is it?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:14 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 777
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Probably Park Life at Paarl.... 40m or so


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:12 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
How long is P1 of Wonderland? Guess if you had a 100m rope and enough long draws you could combine P1 and 2.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:16 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 674
Pitch 1 of Dream Queen at Wellington's Dome is about 50m. The whole route goes at about 140m I think.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:18 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:39 pm
Posts: 84
The problem with a 100m rope is that rope drag becomes a issue.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:55 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Posts: 470
when you start looking at single pitches you will find multi pitch routes with super long pitches in them: some pitches on Spitzkoppe are 65m and bolted, all be it sparsely

_________________
If you aren't willing to solve your own problems, how can you expect others to?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: longest sport route?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:33 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 129
Real Name: Jacques Redelinghuys
One of the best, at grade 24 I think:

Prelude to the Wastelands at Paarl, has 2 last pitches of about 50m each, with only 5 bolts each(those two pitches are at grade 19 full on friction). Friegin awesome, climbed it with my buddy Charles Hopkins a few years back.

Parklife: 45 meters, of which first 30m is vertical, and the last 15 friction. Not grade 27, but grade 30 if you take the tremendous mental aspect in consideration. I mean, if you take in account that Jeremy Samson opened it, you might be able to say grade 27 on difficulty only, but one must remember that some people don't have the ability to get scared..... unlike me, so I propose grade 30 :P

:cyclops:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group