Strubens is not a climbing mecca but many people visit there and I have to comment about worrying grading issues there.

'Drugs and death' is graded 20 but has a 22+ move in it. I'v seen people struggle hard and slip dangerously to clip the last bolt. This weekend there was another potentially serious injury. I climbed it some weeks ago and the route next to it is graded 24 but 'seemed' the same difficulty.

The problem is people feel they should be able to do it because they can do 20 but it's not 20 and fall because it's actually beyond them.

Left of 'streetfighter' is a 19 with a 21 move at the top.

No one really wants to question the guys who grade but sometimes they are not able to grade 20 accurately because they climb 29 or 30. Then some 'pro' comes along and feels the need to dowgrade routes.

I advise people to stay away from 'death and drugs' unless they do 22 comfortably.

Well I got a slightly differen opinion on strubens gradings... They are soft and almost every climb there should be downgraded by about 2 grades. If you climbing strubans 20's, youre probably climbing Boven 18's.

injury should not be a grading problem; it is either badly bolted or belaying is not up to scratch (or can you explain otherwise?). haven't climbed at strubens for years but also remember it as being soft. chosspile's grading is proper (for sport) if you need to compare it to something. and we all know the real sandbaggers are traddies who happen to bolt the odd route - just nasty 'em old pirates

Well if you slip before clipping the last bolt on 'death and drugs' you can fall on protruding rocks.

Anyway you probably right as i'm still learning but Ive been to chospile and climbed 22's, also bronkies but i felt terrible on 'death and drugs'. Maybe it's just me.

If its the route on the arete then its definitely not sandbagged. Just get the easiest beta from someone next time.


You should clip the last bolt before the chains when you have reached the solid rail/jugs just above it.

Strubens is liberally bolted and graded. Don't take those grades too seriously if you're comparing it to some of the solidly graded crags.

The Climb "Drugs & Death" is one of those climbs that if you are tall then there is no crux. IF you are short then you just need some beta and a little bit of body tension and it is very easy. I have spoken to quite a few people at Strubans about that climb. And most people just don't like the moves on that climb. I battled a lot in the begging but now that i have figured it out it is not hard at all. As for the 19 that you were talking about the top section just required a little bit of power at the top the move is no way a 22. I have put a Strong noob (first day on real rock) on that climb and they have made it.

The problem with Grading is that everybody is different and has there own point of view on what is hard and what is easy. I love climbs that are thin and require balance and battle with real huge overhangs (maybe because i need to loose some weight but that is for a different form). I guest what i am saying is the grades are just a guide line. Look at the stars find a climb with good moves and enjoy the rock

There is no excuse for a place like Strubens to be badly protected. The routes are short with mostly high fall factors. Strubens is really like an out-door climbing gym and the bolting should be absolutely spot on. Those bolts are ageing and are going to start breaking.

Any experienced route maker should be able to sort out the bolting with redundancy (back-up) at every point even if it means two bolts at each position. As things stand if a bolt - especially the 1st to 3rd - breaks at Strubens the consequences are going to be serious in 90% of cases with a deck fall being the case. Probably 80% of moves at Strubens have only one bolt between you and a deck fall and that is if you have a sharp belayer and you clip at your waist rather than above your head.

As for grades, on-sight grading on short "gym" style climbs is not important like on big trad walls. There is always beta available and if not then too bad if you find the odd route a little challenging.

BTW, most multi-pitch trad routes in South Africa are sand bags.

If first to third bolt breaks on ANY route at ANY crag you will most likly deck.

Indeed. Dave Wade. That's why I differentiate Strubens as being a "gym" crag.

And that's why I personally feel safer tradding because I put out the gear and I know whether it's trustworthy.

But the important fact is that Stubens bolts and also many at Boven are ageging...

Strubans anchor got redone not that long ago, also the MCSA checks the bolts fairly regularly and most of the bolts are still good.
Strubans get a lot of traffic that is why Strubans is my gym well at lest that is what i use it for. But then again it only takes one good fall and you are injured. Personally i am not worried about the condition of the bolts at sturbans right now this may change later.

Strubens is quite a unique little crag, it is just as snort put, a sort of outdoor climbing gym, and it caters for the whole of JHB. Great for beginners, great to for training, great for everyone. (I wish we had a little strubens here in gordans bay.) As far as the grading, I use to struggled for a long time on a 19 there, then one day someone pointed out a little flake or sidepull or something and hey presto easy as pie, after repeating it 792 times as you do at strubens it became easier than a 15 onsite. So be carefull if you are cumfy on the 8 meter high 19/20's at strubens that you have climbed a zillion times over. Heading over to boven to climb 20/25m routes you don't know is going to be a real eye opener for someone climbing well at strubens.

Yes I agree with you on that one. But what better way to train then on real rock close to home in the SA sun