I heard via the grape vine that someone took a nasty fall on Boggle (heard it last night from an American nogal). Apparently the person ripped gear and fractured his/her skull. Would someone in the know care to share the story and more importantly - is the climber ok?

The only fall I heard of that sounds similar to that was Paul Fatti. The fall happened a number of months ago and he has made a full recovery, AFAIK. He got lucky as he had recently had a hip op and was on meds to thin the blood (to prevent blood clots), BUT had stopped taking the meds a couple weeks before the fall. They recon he may have bled out had he still been on the meds.

Ask one of the Fatti's for full details.

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Open hand, open mind...

Yowzer! That I did not expect. It might be the same incident, even though I was under the impression that it was more recent (maybe 2-3 weeks ago), but I find it hard to believe that there could have been two accidents like that. Boggle sure is big fall country but I was convinced it was safe. That's partly why I'm curious - maybe I overlooked some danger. Anyway, thanks for the info Mark, I'll ask the Fatti's about it and I'm really glad Paul is fine.

Based on the report of the fall a couple of months ago, Fanta arranged a technical MCSA Search and Rescue exercise involving an extraction from the ledge below the last pitch of Boggle (which is under an overhang and rather inaccessible from the top and bottom). It is not the worst-case scenario, but if there is a serious incident here, it will definitely take some time to get someone out. Below is a photo of the English Reeve system that was used in the exercise (the system is based on a Tyrolean/High line set up between the Frog Gulley and Boggle areas).

I believe that the spot in question is the first big slanting section of crack that you get to on the final pitch... (1 move off the big ledge) It takes a #4 BD camalot very nicely, but both sides of the crack are pretty well polished, and very parallel!

I was told the story of someone's gear ripping out of that crack, as I was setting out to lead it, and duly backed it up with a bomber nut slightly lower down. Thankfully neither were needed!

It is an awesome route though!

Balls to the wall dude!!!
Even after i told you about what had happened you still go ahead and lead it...

Ya, my dad's (Paul Fatti's) fall was about this time last year. He was struggling a bit with the crux and decided to rest before trying it again, but as he put weight on the gear, both cams between him and the ledge popped and he swung and hit his head. Besides a minor crack in his scull and a bad headache he was fine.
Thanks for the concern

So as I understand it, it basically became a factor 2 fall in some or another? Also I head that one of the ropes was badly frayed/cut/damaged from the sharp edge on the ledge?

Also guys, if you out in the mountains and you crack your skull its only super hero's like Chuck Norris and Paul Fatti that are able to still walk out... feel free to call us/S&R on 074 125 1385 or 074 163 3952. Rescues done by us are done for free (I do believe this excludes Cape Town)

Rescues in the whole of SA are free, including Cape Town.

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Happy climbing
Nic

what about Gough??

@ fatclimber: Was he wearing a helmet when this incident happened??

On Gough rescues cost the taxpayer (or at least the insurance company) a bucket load of cash because they have to send one of the fancy new frigates to come collect me. What do you suppose it costs to hire one for 8 days?

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Happy climbing
Nic

Thanks Tina. That kinda makes me hesitant to go up there again. I haven't climbed the route in the last year or two, but I doubt it will be much different now. I thought the cam placements were as good as you can hope for. I even took a little lob on them after my first go went wrong. I remember 2 really good nut placements lower down. One about a meter left of the crack and the other in the bottom of the big crack. The only thing that concerned me was the angle, but I figured placing long slings on the nuts would prevent them from lifting out and possibly creating a type of bottom-to-top zipper. Interesting enough all my cam popping experiences started with a rest, not a fall.

That photo of the rescue rig is quite cool, you can see Tigatrix and Horseplay in the background...

What really is your point shorty?

Relax Oupa, I wasn't trying to make a point at all

I am another daughter of Paul Fatti.

@ dOnk3y: Yes he was wearing a helmet (he does religiously), and yes, from what I can understand about it, it was a factor two fall and the ropes were badly damaged.

FYI the biggest fall ever taken off of Boggle was Kevin Smith in 1988 as a stunt for a movie - the name of which escapes me. He fell further than the length of the final pitch from the top of the crack!!! Can anyone help me with the movie name... maybe splice out a clip for all to see...

Mike Cartwright reminded me that the movie was called Scavengers - shot in 1987. I actually rented it from the local video store so copies are out there (VHS or Betamax....). The fall was so big he flew out of frame on all but one camera.

assuming this is it?

Scavengers (1987)

A college professor and his ex-girlfriend find themselves being hunted by the CIA, the KGB and an African drug smuggler. Seems they have inadvertently gotten information that would show how the KGB gave the CIA state secrets in return for a cut of the African drug-smuggling market.

free download here:

http://www.fullmovies.com/

At fatclimber: how could 2 cams rip / pop just by resting on them? Were they badly placed or was the rock suspect?

Riaan, if I can share my 5cents... The rock is bullet hard, but very polished and at places slightly flaring. That being said, the most likely place the cams would have been placed, the crack is pretty much parallel sided. The crack is some way to the right of the stance. That means you don't get a straight downward pull on the gear, but I doubt it would be too much of a problem. I don't think "good" or "bad" placements by the climber comes into the question as it is pretty straight forward what to do and besides that, Paul is as experienced as it gets. I think the cams simply slipped on the polished rock. I took a fall off the crux and the cams both held, but I don't know if I was lucky, or maybe it had something to do with hot and humid weather making it more slippery, or maybe it had something to do with slow loading of the cam (rest) as opposed to more sudden loading (fall). I used tech friends every time I've climbed the route, but I don't think there would be much difference between different cam designs. Hindsight has 20/20 vision, but I think the best way to protect that pitch is to place a big nut just left of the bottom of the crack on the left rope, then a big nut in the bottom of the crack on the right rope. Then place the two cams - bottom cam for the right rope and top cam for the left rope. I remember putting 60cm slings on the nuts, but I can't remember what I did with the cams. It is probably a good idea to at least extend the cams with draws.

Thanks for the explanation, Shorti. I'm pretty new to trad and didn't know that cams could slip on polished rock if loaded. Something to keep in mind...