Hey Robert,

Mallorca is cool if you want to do deepwater soloing, but for sport climbing there are better spots on the peninsula. Your best bet is probably Margalef and Siurana, at that time of year, but the centre of Spain also has some cool spots. Send me a pm and I can give you all the info you need (I live in Spain).
Also check out www.escuelasdeescalada.com for a complete list of crags (with star ratings) in Spain.

Cheers!

You lucky fish.

I was in Spain in late November last year and managed to get to Siurana for a week. All I had was a harness, chalk and shoes and met up with great people to climb with. If you head to the Northern bits of Spain take some warm clothing - I definitely missed my gloves while belaying.

Siurana has super top class Sport - even in the lower and mid ranges - although its famous for its 9a and up routes, as is Margalef which is a few hours away. I did all my travel solo without renting a car - so if you want beta on how to get to Siurana by train and bus let me know.

I hear there is big multi-pitch in Montserrat, but I didnt get up there from Barcelona - I figure if you're going to go North of Barcelona you should hit the Pyrenees.

No matter where you go I'm certain you'll have a blast - I'm guessing somewhere like Mallorca will be warmer than up north, but cool is good for friction...

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I don't think, therefore I'm Not

Hi!

(I'm an spaninsh in SA). November, depending on the zone is a bit cold. Siurara is fine but also, less known but in my oppinion for the normal climbers, more beautiful you have La Mussara and also Arboili and Margalef. (Margalef refugee & la musara are lovely)
If you look for trad, I'll advise better to go to Montserrat or to discover El Montsec (Montrebei, Tarradets, Vilanova de Meia, Ager or Sant llorenç de Morunys). In montsec you also will find a lot of sportive (Santa Linya is there...)

Have a look for routes on www.lanochedelloro.com.

Mallorca island is fine for psico-block , and also have some sportive or trad. Bud november the water is cold (for psico-block) and you'll find best climbs in Catalunya, Aragon or Valencia

If you need more details, please ask me.

Best Regards

Jose

My turn to head to Spain has come up, I'll be in Valencia from 23 Oct for a week, then in Barcelona from 30 Oct for a week, and I gotsta climb. My main issue is I need someone to go out with, does anyone have friends over there who might be keen to take me out? Preferably sport or trad.

Please pm me and I'll send you my email address.

Much appreciated!
Matt

Matt, ah rats... you just missed one of my dear friends who was there for a couple weeks. I just sent you a mail introducing you to two folks. One was the guy just traveling through and the other lives there full time. Hopefully they can help you out.

I travelled solo and stayed at Camping Siurana. Within 20 minutes of arriving I had multiple offers for a catch. Just get out there - I'm very confident you will find folk to climb with.

Enjoy!

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I don't think, therefore I'm Not

Are you going to have access to a car?

And I personally wouldn't bother carrying a trad rack, options are pretty limited, and not worth the extra weight. Although there is a bit around.

Thanks for putting me in touch Rachel :-)

Siurana looks incredible, the town and the climbing. No I won't have a car, so I'll be bussing, training and hitch-hiking my way around, hopefully I can get up to Siurana on my way through to Barcelona.

I won't take my rack, just my harness, shoes, chalk bag and a few bits of gear, I have to travel quite light.

Thanks for the input everyone!

The trains up and down the coast are pretty good, but transport gets worse as you go inland. There are busses from Reus to Siurana, but they only take you to the village at the bottom, and you need to hitch or walk to the top.

You can get a train to Gandia from Vallencia and it's a bit of a walk to the crag, but doable. I think the Rockfax guide has some good travel info.

My suggestion is to make contact with the FEEC, the Catalan mountain club.

I have always found them to be friendly and accommodating and their members are very willing to take you to their favourite crag - including some lesser known off the beaten track beauties.

Their details are:
Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC)
Member of the UIAA since 2000

La Rambla 41
08002 Barcelona, Spain
Phone: +34 934 120 777
Fax: +34 934 412 63 53
Email: feec@feec.cat
Website: http://www.feec.cat

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Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso