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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 87
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
If any one could please help me conquer my personal nemesis. I'm not even sure if I'm starting the sequence right. Its a quite crag and have never seen anyone do it. So any tips would greatly appreciated.

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Frank
5-10 pairs of miss matched hand me downs
Mixed draws
Black rope


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 5:45 pm
Posts: 72
Real Name: peter parker
I will join you there if you like, I think iv done it before..

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remember the days when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:02 am
Posts: 158
Location: Johannesburg
Real Name: Neil Margetts
Hi

Just the bottom 5 m is hard, and then it eases off. From what I remember when I opened it, I used a side cling on the right to get left to two small crimps. Then a campus move onto the bigger crimp and a strenuous move to the better hold above. Then it’s just a matter of keeping going to the top. This is more like 24 not 23, as I think it is easier for taller climbers.

Neil


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:09 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 10:18 am
Posts: 78
Location: Johannesburg
From the ground, I used the sidecling on the right to get up to a small crimp high on the left. Adjust feet and reach across to the upper of 2 crimpy vertical sideclings for your right hand. Get feet up and cross with left hand to the big chalked up crimp. Straight up ladder climbing on crimps to the top, significantly easier than the bottom section.

I'd agree on the 24 grade - this one took me the same number of attempts as Red Zone! Very technical to work out the best sequence though...

Oh, and stick-clip the first bolt as it's 4m off the ground after all the crux moves! :eye:


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