Hey All

Help me out here please - I am looking for long trad routes in the grade range of 14-17. Please list the lesser known gems (or well know) that you know of in Southern Africa.
Normal star rating criteria applies

Cheers
Marley

Hanglip Frontal is apparently rather nice, but I think I told you about it. It is very long and I think it is about a 16 with more difficult direct variations. Don't go without me!

Eclipse (on Wolfberg) is one of my favourite long easy routes. 6 Pitches, around 13 in grade I think - Nice and easy climbing all the way.

Tafelberg Frontal was also pretty good, but not as good as Eclipse - lots of walking around on big ledges.

Spiderman - apparently it's just a 17

Funny (not).... Spiderman
That thing still gives me the jeebeez.

OK, so let's make it anything 6 pitches and longer....

haven't climbed any of these but they all have a good rep:

Exposure in F major (17) - 13 pitches; Du Toit's Kloof
Eagles Folly (16) - 7 pitches; Montagu
Slangolie Buttress (16) - 400m; ? pitches; 12 Apostles Cape Town
Klein Winterhoek Frontal (16) - ? pitches; Klein Winterhoek
Smalblaar Ridge (17) - 6 pitches; Yellowwood; Du Toit's Kloof

Snort on Slangolie: It is a fun outing and the only "big wall" trad outing of its kind that I am aware of the world -it being in walking distance from a cosmopolitin city such as Cape Town It is about 450m in height and involves varied climbing on very climbable rock. But it requires some care and experience to ascend safely.

Time to come visit CT brah!

I am in CT for 2 weeks in December - you available Mok? Shorti?

Does anyone have a RD for Slangolie?

I just emailed it to Mok. If you also want a copy, then PM me your email address

thanks!!

Great Gulley, Gulley Corner and Shady Corner are all around 300m or so at Blouberg. I haven't done any of them so I don't know if they're any good. You'll probably get up there somewhere at about grade 17 or so.
Plenty long, easy stuff at Krantsberg near Thabazimbi (black Eagle Crag is a grade 15 I think)
The 'berg has tons of "easy" stuff.

Maidens Prayer at Tafelberg, Cederberg.
Graded about 15/16. Five or so pitches.
Pitch 2 is world class, as is the crux pitch which is the 2nd last pitch, a beautiful layback.
As shorti says, if you are at Tafelberg, do Tafelberg Frontal as well.

Add Fledermaus and Smalblaar Ridge in Dutiotskloof to your list. Both have big air, in stunning situations and excellent rock. The walk-offs of both are not for the faint-hearted.

Hi Andy
Do you perhaps have an RD for Fledermaus?

Mok wrote about these routes:
Exposure in F major (17) - 13 pitches; Du Toit's Kloof
-brilliant long and exposed!! I've done this three or four times, and it get better each time.
picture from summit http://www.pvfc.co.za/Brent/Exposure.jpg

Slangolie Buttress (16) - 400m; ? pitches; 12 Apostles Cape Town
-a good day out very alpine feel and mostly easy gr12 or less, only one 16 pitch, the rest I have done in big mountain boots
picture from summit http://www.pvfc.co.za/Brent/Slangolie.jpg

Klein Winterhoek Frontal (16) - ? pitches; Klein Winterhoek
-epic , epic, epic. Long walk-in and cant easily be done in one day unless you are super fit! huge exposure, very remote feeling just beautiful! also very easy with only 1 pitch of 16
picture from summit http://www.pvfc.co.za/Brent/Winterhoek.jpg

I will be around in December and I am sure I can sort a day off, drop me a pm if you are keen to head out in CT.

Awesome - thanks Brent

Does anyone have a RD for Klein Winterhoek Frontal? What are the access arrangements like these days?