We were climbing Long Bolt to Freedom (17 A0) at Swinburne this weekend – a superb 7 pitch sport route to the top of the mountain (thanks Gavin!). On the aid pitch there were three bolts quite close to each other, so you could pull yourself across. But someone has removed the middle hanger. Without the hanger on the bolt, one must either free the pitch at grade 23 or try aid on the bolt stud using a sling that is not exactly secure.

I would love to know who removed the hanger, and what your thinking was. I am seriously concerned about those climbers who can climb 17A0, but not 23. They will read the route description and go for it, and then get stuck at a bolt. What are they to do? Abseil down from one anchor?

this is useful news as i was planning on climbing the route in December.

Can you snag the bolthead with a wired nut? Or carry a hanger and a bolt with you? At least if folk are aware they can prepare?

Hmm thats the mistake we always make.. we assume they thought....
if you did not bolt it, dont change it! its not yours!

If i remember - you are not actually "clipping" the bolt but aiding up on it.. sling the bolt stub with a dyneema and pull up on it.. clipping the next one, making sure you clipped the previous bolt... should up the mind game a bit

It must have been removed recently , I climbed long bolt last week Sunday ( 13th) and all the hangers were there.

We used a sling and it worked fine. And I am sure a wired nut will also work. (But it is still not a mind game I'd like to play if it was my first multi pitch route...)

Now I would love to go back and read to summit book to see who was there between last weekend and this weekend...

How about a re-grade of 17(A 0.5) ?

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Hi Poppie

We removed the hanger . It was loose and hence unsafe, the bolts on that route are so close together at the crux that it didnt seem like a problem to still get through the move.
Unsafe routes are becoming a problem on our local crags .If im there soon will take tools with to fix it again, it is great route !
I Will put the hanger to good use though , plan on replacing those rusty pitons in the Magallies classic routes (specifically Tonquani ) with safe bolts within the next 2 weeks.
They typically get a lot of newbees on .

Rob, that's some low grade trolling buddy, even for you.

Well a finger tight hanger isn't all that unsafe, especially if it's just being used to aid on. Certainly better than hanging on a precariously placed sling... If you're that desperate for some free hangers, perhaps I can help sponsor some for you? Would be great if someone could replace it next time they're up there!

Rob i certainly hope you have the required permission to replace existing pitons with bolts in the MCSA owned Magaliesberg kloofs!

Permission is not an issue to bolt in the Magaliesberg. It is at present a no-bolt zone. I, we, the members of the MCSA, are the MCSA. Do not bolt the Magalies.

Why?...as a mater of intrest. Same as TM?

8a, st0ne, 9ja, Serioustribe & probably a couple other I don't recall now

SSDD

Boring. PreDICKtable.

It is not entirely a no bolt zone , I do recall seeing bolts on the 25 next to Donkerhoek corner and on the gulley heading down into Tonquani.
In all respect a bolt is the same thing as a piton and we all clip those rusted pitons and rely on them...you wouldnt clip a rusty bolt at a sports crag.
I do realise the 25 has 2 bolts because it has no place for pro at that point....but then it defeats the object of that area being trad only doesnt it?
Other routes like Hawks eye for example are very easy , but the first pitch is low on gear and if someone has to fall it could be nasty. One or 2 bolts would make it safe.

Oh boy here we go again, the magaliesberg kloofs are MCSA property and there is a NO BOLTING policy!!!!!!!!!! The few bolts that are there are not supposed to be there. The pitons were placed many years ago before cams and modern pro, leave them where they are, they are part of climbing history. I have taken beginners up Hawks eye many times, it does not need to be bolted!!! If someone needs a bolt or two for the start they shouldn't be there, (on lead anyway) simple as that.

Hey Rob, you bolted without the permission of the MCSA before, and that didn't work out too well did it?

Back under the bridge troll, and you lot, stop feeding him

Mr. Serioustribe,

Would you be so kind as to let us know your true identity (name)?

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Climb ZA - Administrator

Heheeh too sharp Pierre !

Sorry guys Just having a little fun to get my week going , there are no plans what so ever to bolt the Magallies I have donated a few nuts on those kloofs though ...does that count ??
Oh and nor did I remove the hanger from Long bolt

You

Not entirely true... there are many many kloofs which are not owned by the MCSA and taking into account Fernkloof at Bergheim and Wigwam there are quite a few bolted routes... plus there are some commercial operations which have bolted climbs / abseils which were done legally (i.e. with the land owners permission - some by MCSA mebers )

Lets not be too quick to generalise about the whole Magaliesberg...


agreed

Damn!! There I thought we were going to have anouther 'bush' type episode. Its so boring when everyone follows the rules.

Derance wrote: lets not generalise about the magaliesberg.
Point taken

Perhaps you could start one.... (a 'bush' episode that is...)

Put up some via ferrata through Tonquani... just to be safe and make it accessible to the underprivileged..

Great idea dewrance
Dont forget to litter in Tonquani too, it creates jobs for the underprivileged

Maybe a via verrata to a chiped out ledge with a good view of the nesting black eagles?

Hi Climbed this route 3 months ago, remeber this bolt was loose not only the nut the whole bolt was shaky.

Edit from Admin: mistersisco, I lightened up your picture (it was a bit dark before).

Serioustribe,
may I suggest you get a real name in addition to your non de plume so that your audience can get to know who we are talking to.
This is a small family, and most guys here know each other in some way or another, and if not, are soon to...

I really want to pick a fight with you right now, but choose not to degrade myself to your level of immaturity. Judged by the attention illegal bolting has received (incl lots of emotion, threatened legal suits, etc,etc) I dont think its something to joke about, and in such a way. The original post was honest, concerned, and serious.

grow up

Justin, please remove this guy's post before someone again reads half the post and blows all out of proportion