a-NO-sazi

Post here for all your gear questions, rants and raves. Ask about gear before you buy it and find out what others are using. NOTE: this forum is NOT for gear sales.

Post Reply
shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:55 pm

Just heard (after waiting for about 2 months) that I won't get my Anasazis! Why oh why, take the only half decent shoe off the market? Robert, Jacques, Lee (or anyone else at City Rock), can you perhaps explain what's going on? I hope it's just some CT winter damp that caused brain rot and the summer sun will make things right again :mrgreen:

But seriously, now what? Is there anything to substitute it (like there was when they stopped making the original Anasazis, I still think the original ones were better). And no I don't want no stinking velcro slippers, they are for boulderers.

If anyone has No. 12 UK in stock, I'll take it. It's getting really desperate, my current pair is hanging on by the finger nails. I don't want to try some other wannabe brand. My cupboard is filled with evolvs, la sportivas and mad rocks that I refuse to ever wear again. Thank you :thumright

Chris F
Posts: 788
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Chris F » Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:12 pm

I assume you are referring to Anasazi lace ups? Seeing you are so scathing of Velcros.

FWIW I had about 4 pairs of the pink Anasazi lace-ups in a row and loved them, used them for a lot of the harder routes I was doing at the time and thought they were good for just about everything; sport, boulder and trad (apart from foot jams in cracks) although the heel was pretty terrible for hooking. I now use a pair of the Velcro VCS and think they are excellent for eveything I used to use the pinks for, and the heel is a hundred times better.

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:20 pm

Chris F wrote:scathing of Velcros
That was just a little joke, but yeah, I don't like them. Shoes must have laces, except for plakkies, sandals and pantoffels. I'm waiting from my contact (mwahaha) to hear if he can get me some of the white shoes, I think he meant they don't make the green ones anymore, or don't import them or whatever reason I can't get them.

I must admit, those pink shoes did have a daft heel. The green ones were better, but still not great. At least they all had proper rubber.

Chris F
Posts: 788
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Chris F » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:17 pm

What about a classy patent leather slip on with a small buckle? A chelsea boot? A fetching croc in yellow with small animal details on the toes, a lovely birkenstock (as worn by our germanic cousins with socks) or a burberry pattern slip on deck shoe.

This is a modern world, embrace change, open your eyes to the footwear related possibilites out there for us all!

Seriously what's your beef with velcros?

pierre.joubert
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by pierre.joubert » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:20 pm

He works for the gawwermint and doesn't know how to work the velcro.

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1708
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:23 pm

i have a pair of brand spanking new green lace-up machines in my cupboard. just had to buy them whan the last TM walk-off in the dark destroyed my puke-orange velcro machinettes. sorry, they're not for sale though - trad season is here :mrgreen:

chris, shorti's just venting. he does embrace change. just the other day he used a handful of 5c pieces to buy a candle and matches :thumright

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:55 pm

LOL, good one Mok!
mokganjetsi wrote:they're not for sale though - trad season is here
You have a trad season? What the hell! I don't want to relocate to Cape Town any more :(

Chris, I'm looking for climbing shoes, not effective contraceptives :cyclops:
It looks like (haven't had velcros myself) they are pretty good at getting stuff stuck in the vecro straps. They get filthy to the point of the velcro not sticking any more. The straps tends to tear off. Then we don't even start with the inferior fit and limited adjustment capabilities. And they're ugly.

Pierre I don't actually work for the gawwermint, I can't even recall why I said that, maybe just another silly joke. Although I am at Eskom on a project at the moment and I hate every minute of it.

Maybe 5.10 realised they lost their way when they started using synthetic leather. Boy that stuff stinks, I can't get into a 10 meter radius of my shoes after taking them off. I can't wait for a new line of leather Anasazis :alien:

pierre.joubert
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by pierre.joubert » Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:01 pm

shorti wrote:I can't get into a 10 meter radius of my shoes after taking them off.
So climbing shoes to you are kinda single use? Expensive hobby then.
shorti wrote:Pierre I don't actually work for the gawwermint...Although I am at Eskom on a project at the moment...
Oh I get it.. obviously no-one who works for gawwermint actually works for gawwermint. Can't argue with that :jocolor:

M@
Posts: 81
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:37 pm
Real Name: Mathieu Schneuwly
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by M@ » Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:10 pm

Whats a anuseazi?
Miura lace ups are the only way to go. :thumright

Chris F
Posts: 788
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Chris F » Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:47 pm

shorti wrote:It looks like (haven't had velcros myself) they are pretty good at getting stuff stuck in the vecro straps. They get filthy to the point of the velcro not sticking any more. The straps tends to tear off.
No no no and no, never had any of those probs (well apart from the pair of Red Chillis I bought in haste with swollen feed after a day out in the Arizona heat, and then realised they are actually bad for my narrow feet and the straps were too long)
shorti wrote: Then we don't even start with the inferior fit and limited adjustment capabilities. And they're ugly.
You must freakishly shaped feet? I get a great fit and can adjust velcro way better than a lace, and it's great to slip them off on belays on multi-pitches. As for ugly, well it's all in the eye of the beholder.

As the old saying goes, there are none so blind as those who do not want to see 8).

Good luck with your hunt for shoes they no longer make. I can scour the online shops here for you if you are desperate?

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:20 pm

Thanks Matt, I've always wanted to try them out, but it seems like it is impossible to get them. I've actually ordered a pair many months ago, but still nothing. So they can be as awesome as you say, but in the end it's pointless if I can't get any :(

Thanks for the offer Chris, I really appreciate it, but I'm sure there's something I don't know. I can't believe they will simply discontinue a great shoe without at least replacing it. I hear what you say about the velcros, as I said I've never climbed with velcros before, just saw my mates climb with them, and I base my assumption on guessing and watching my mates who climb with them. I just like the idea of having some degree of a adjust ability towards the toe box. You're obviously a great fan of velcros :mrgreen:
pierre.joubert wrote:shorti wrote:
Pierre I don't actually work for the gawwermint...Although I am at Eskom on a project at the moment...
Oh I get it.. obviously no-one who works for gawwermint actually works for gawwermint. Can't argue with that :jocolor:
Haha, fair enough Pierre, you have a good point. And no, I just keep them on - keep the stink inside.

Warren G
Posts: 857
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:48 am
Real Name: Warren Gans

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Warren G » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:32 pm

if you are suffering to find them I was in Mountain Pursuits (Bloem) on Monday and I think they had a pair of UK12s. Incidentally they had red and yellow aliens, as well as other bits and pieces that people look for but never think of MP. pieter at mountainpursuits .co.za
Sandbagging is a dirty game

User avatar
mountainmailorder
Posts: 105
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mountainmailorder » Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:32 pm

In UK 12, we have the new Evolv Defy Lace as well as the Evolv Demorto lace in stock.
Also got the 5.10 Anasazi VCS velcro.
Sorry, no a-NO-sazi green or white lace right now.
The lace is a reeeaaallly sloooww seller so I am not sure that we will continue to import it.
It's hard to please everyone all the time.
- R

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1708
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:46 pm

robert, can we pre-order anasazi lace-ups with you guys; then you do not need to hold slow selling stock? happy to pre-pay even.

i have climbed with both velcro & lace-ups. i do not think there's a lot of difference but i do favor the lace-ups.

User avatar
mountainmailorder
Posts: 105
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mountainmailorder » Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:17 pm

yes of course you can order and we will add it to our next shipment. but we just literally landed a container so it will be a while, probably december before our next shipment.
the blanco white or the green verde?
we sold 7 of the green verde in six months so we stopped importing it. still have a few left though. u also a size 12?

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1708
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:20 pm

size UK 11; blanco or green verde - they feel the same to me; whatever is easiest to get hold of. maybe shorti also wants to place an order?

thanks!!

Marshall1
Posts: 766
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Real Name: Derek Marshall
Location: Port Elizabeth
Contact:

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Marshall1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:32 pm

:idea:
Last edited by Marshall1 on Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:43 am

Ok, I'll talk to Jacques, thanks Warren. If he can't help (and no one else can) then I'll also pre-order a pair or 2.

Slow seller, I can't believe that. I know lots of people who climb with them. Maybe we lace-up folks are just better climbers and need to replace less often :pirat:

Derek, thanks for the alternative, I'll see if I can find someone close where I can fit them. I'm in centurion, if anyone close has them in stock, just shout. It's not something I want to do, but maybe just maybe they are to my liking. As for those evolvs, it defies any logic why anyone would want to climb with them. Won't the Demorto's clash with my lovely spandex pants? Seriously, the Pontas were kinda cool, but only after I resoled it with stealth. Problem is my feet kinda got bigger from from my last big fall, so I can't get them on my feet any more :(

Just for interest sake, do the velcro straps look pretty with your pink scarves? :twisted:

vanessa
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 5:04 pm
Real Name: Vanessa Lane
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by vanessa » Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:54 am

If you know exactly which shoes you want and what size, dare I suggest it... Order online?

User avatar
Thermophage
Posts: 447
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Thermophage » Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:14 am

I got a pair of the FiveTen 5x's out of the "Bargain Bin" there the other day...wow they are SUPER rad. They have a small heel cup, which fits, unlike my old dragons.
They also have some Quantums and a rather big pair f the Speedsters in that bin for cheap :) Always worth a look...
I heard City Rock recently got in a lot of Miura's and Solutions? Any idea when you might get in the La Sportiva Futura's?

Cheers,
Cuan

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1708
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by mokganjetsi » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:30 pm

shorti wrote:You have a trad season? What the hell!
well, not really if you can slip, slide, & slap your way up dripping sandstone during the cape winter. a bit like the magalies this last summer.
vanessa wrote:dare I suggest it... Order online?
ja. but we really want to support our local retailers on this. and US$165 + shipping + VAT + whatever tax the boykies at customs decides to levy this time = an expensive proposition. plan D :thumright

shorts, why do you not just resole that pair of green stinkers at vertical world? i saw some recent work of theirs and it really looks better than new.
ps: hannie says if we're not doing a week-in-the-cederberg this year she's never visiting again. not sure if that's good or bad :scratch:

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:37 pm

Good point, and we're having a baboon problem too lately.

I'm planning to have them resoled, I want to beat your brother's record for the stinkiest shoes ever to be resoled. I just want something to climb with in the mean time and then demote the resoled ones to training shoes.

Sorry for taking so long, I'll make a plan. D day is next Thursday, then I'll know if I'll have a holiday this year.

shorti
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by shorti » Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:25 pm

I just wanted to mention one more thing. I collected a pair of Muiras at the post office, yesterday. Trish (from MMO / City Rock) phoned me earlier the week and offered to send me a pair of Muiras instead of the Anasazis I wanted. She's been very helpful and even went half a size smaller than what I asked. It turned out to be a great decision, because they fit perfectly. Thanks Trish! Time will tell if this will be my new shoe of choice. Blyde should be a good place to break them in (I wanted to go to the Rally, but Blyde is kinda hard to beat).

Chris F
Posts: 788
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: a-NO-sazi

Post by Chris F » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:49 am

If they're good enough for Ondra....

Post Reply